Techulator, 5.5-5.11a

Overview/Approach

Techulator is one of several features located relatively close together in a small east-west valley (named Middle Kingdom) at the north end of what the local guides call the “West Rim” at the entrance to North Wonderland.  The west rim refers to a massive hillside of jumbled rock that produces several good rock climbing faces including Hidden Dome,   Ellesmere and Gilligan’s Islands.  The West Rim can be seen in the distance to the north from the Boy Scout trailhead parking area which is located on the north side of the main park road.  You hike straight north on the Boy Scout trail and follow it left and then take the right fork for Willow Hole.  You are circumventing this West Rim around its west side.  Middle Kingdom’s valley opens up to the east as you pass Gilligan’s Island.  In this valley are three climbing destinations:  Techulator, Pernicious Dome and El Dorado.  Techulator and Pernicious Dome are located next to each other at the east end of this small valley and most of their climbs are south facing.

The best route on Techulator is Muffin Bandits, 5.10b*, a left facing varnished corner starting out fingers and finishing with hands.  To gain this corner however involves runout and heady leading on suspect rock.  Another approach is to climb Science Experiments You Can Eat, 5.10b, and rap down to the base of Muffin's corner.  However, this route involves slab climbing at the grade through two button head bolts as of 2019.  A cute solo is what they have named the Spire Route, 5.5.  There are not many spires and towers in Jtree, and this route gives you the opportunity to stand on top of one.  It lies in the forefront of the south wall of Techulator and offers a two bolt rap, versus just one bolt as stated in Miramontes latest guide (2019).   But it is an easy down climb for the competent climber as well.

Park at the Boy Scout trailhead.  The hike is approximately 1.5 miles.  Head north on the main Boy Scout Trail and follow it left around the West Rim.  Take the right fork for Willow Trail and when a small valley opens up on the right (east) side, hike east through open desert floor to the two walls at the east end of this short valley.  Techulator is on the right and Pernicious is on the left.  Muffin and Science Experiments are located next to each other at the southwest end.  Spire Route is located in front of the south face.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Wall

Science Experiments You Can Eat- 115’-5.10b/ A relatively contrived route on the west face.   Climb up meandering, below the grade, crack systems to the right side arête.    The gear is decent to this point, however the two bolts protecting the arête are button heads (2019).  Make slab moves at the grade through the two run out bolts to the top.   A shared gear anchor with Muffin Bandits.  There were no fixed raps off the formation in 2019.  You must chimney down 5th class just to the east of where you top out and scramble out a gully to the northwest.  Single small rack, two draws, medium cams and/or long cord for the gear anchor.  Dow

Muffin Bandits- 100’-5.10b*/ The start is poorly protected (needs a bolt) and chossy, but the well varnished 60’ tall left facing corner above makes it a worthy objective.  Chimney up to an obvious short face below a small ledge and the start of the significant left facing corner.  Make committing moves on chossy flakes with little to any sound pro up the short and steep face to access the base of the corner.  Starts out fingers and goes to hands, single rack from fingers to C4#3.  You need additional medium gear to build a top rope anchor or bring the 2nd up via long cord, slinging a boulder.  Same top point as Science.  Same 5th class descent down the chimney to the east.  Dow

Slow Mutants- 100’-5.11a*/

E.B. Bon Homme- 60’-5.9/

Spire Route- 30’-5.5/ Spires and towers are in short supply in Jtree compared to many desert climbing destinations, so when you get the opportunity to stand on top of one, you might as well take it.  This is a secure solo climb and down climb, however there is one modern (2019) pro bolt and a two bolt anchor (although the most recent guide claims only one, 2019).  Approach a gully up the right side of the spire. Turn left to circumvent the spire to its short west face.  Large holds.  Dow

Tchalk (sic) is Cheap- 60’-5.10d/

Garden Path- 60’-5.10a/

Chute to Kill- 60’-5.10d/

Under a Raging Moon- 20’-5.10c/

Too Thin for Poodles- 5.10c*/