The Wart, 5.10a-5.12b

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope
Season:
Spring, Fall, Winter
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The Wart, 5.10a-5.12b
Created On: Dec 14, 2017
Last Edited On: Dec 21, 2017

Overview/Approach

 
The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, 5.10a*
Dow leading The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, 5.10a*

The Wart is a small feature/wall located at the northeast corner of Real Hidden Valley, not far from Hidden Tower. It's easiest line if a worthy 5.10a off-width by the name: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly.  Although Miramontes only gives this route one star in his guide, it is deserving of more. Through 50’+ (vs only 30’ that he has it listed at) you climb a hand crack to a roof to an arête traverse (photo) and finish via a full body "S" shaped off-width crack (photo). This location is fairly quiet and secluded for the area, offering an ideal lunch destination. John Bachar established two top rope 5.11- routes on the Wart in the 70’s.

Enter the loop trail and turn right. Follow the trail for several hundred yards looking for the south wall of the formation on the right (photo).  A quick scramble in front of the south wall gets you up to a nice ledge/large platform below the southeastern face. Good Bad and Ugly starts down in a slot below this ledge in an obvious hand crack. There are no fixed raps, but it offers plenty of options on top to build a gear belay/top rope. Scramble down the north side.

Route Description (s)

South Face, Routes Right to Left

  • The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly- 50’-5.10a*/This route is taller than the guide suggests. You start at the very bottom of a hand crack (down in a slot). Easy hands up to the roof traverse, still easy hands as you traverse right to the arête with a fun but exposed move. I placed one piece in the roof towards the arête to avoid rope drag. If you are going to sow up this lower portion, make sure to extend your pieces. Once on the arête, the 5.10 climbing starts. Move your body into the “S” curve and do heel to toe off width to inch your way up the wide crack. When it straightens out, there is an edge for your left hand and then you are finished with any climbing at the grade. Can scramble down the back. Can also set a medium gear belay for a top rope. Single rack to C4#5, you definitely do not need a #6 and could get along without the #5 if you are a competent off width leader. Dow

  • Toad Warriors- 50’-5.12b*

  • Compound W- 50’-5.11b (top rope only)

  • Preparation H- 35’-5.11a (top rope only)

  • Symbolic of Life- 40’-5.11a*