Hi I have just taken over this page and will be work on it as i get more knowledge of the mountain and it's climbs.....so please do not rate it till this message has been removed :-)
Aiguille du Fou is a some what over shadowed peak which is seem lost (next to Aig. de Blaitiére) in the huge mass of the Aiguilles that over look the village of Chamonix. It is most likely known or remembered for it South face route Voie Classique which went to T. frost, S. Fulton, J. Harlin and G. Hemmings in (all from the Stanford alpine club i believe) in July 1963, with 300m of climbing at grade of ABO (if freed).
Climbing on the valley side is less difficult but problematic all the same with routes requiring both rockclimbing and high mountain skill, namely route finding problems and the danger of stone fall in several areas.
Aiguille du Fou was first summited on July 16th 1901 by E Fontaine (who the series of ledges, which are notoriously difficult to follow are named after) and J Ravanel.
Fou is normal climbed in conjuction with Aig. de Blaitière as follows.
IF COMING TO CHAMONIX CHECK OUT www.chamonix.com it has everthing you need to know about the area.
Chamonix can be reached without to much trouble via Car (if traveling in winter it is advisable to carry chains or at least have winter tires. The crossing over the pass after Martigny can be a bit hairy at times of heavy snow so it is best to check snow forecasts (www.chamonix.com) and plan to drive via Geneva if heavy snow is forecasted below 1500ms) Note; the Swiss sometime (mostly during the ski season) have a speed camera setup before Martigny. Bus from either Geneva airport or Geneva Bus station. Or by Train which departs from directly below the airport to Martigny then change to Chamonix. If money is no object a taxi from the airport will set you back around 250 euro as i was informed by one very p*%"ed off guy whose plane was late in.
ACCESS TO AIG. DU FOU
Make your way to the Montenvers Train station and take the train (10.30 euro one way, 13.40 euro return) up to Montenver (1910M) from the train station follow the path (south) which leads down to the Mer Glacier which uses a series of ladders to reach the glacier. Head up the Glacier (normally well traveled with limited route finding problems), as you reach the 2000m mark watch on the right side for yellow paint and ladders, follow this path below the Trélaporte glacier to the Envers des Aig. hut (approx 3hrs).
the Area directly below the hut offers single pitch climbs (mostly around grade 5) which will be past on the way to the hut or you can rappel on to the climbs from the hut.
Once leaving the hut for Aig du Fou descend slighty below the Envers de Blaittiere glacier (keep an eye on the serac), then head up from the first point of Natillons.
Take the Aig du Midi cable car ( 13 euro one way,15 euro return) to the half way station at Plan de l' Aig. From there head (NNE) past the small lake to reach the slopes of Aig de Blaitiere and make you approach on your chosen route from there.
I would highly recommend ( if you have the energy) hiking down the valley on one of the trails which leads back to Chamonix , the trail that brakes of the Montenvers trail and passes the Blaitieres hut (1926m) is my fav and a bit less traveled that the one that goes down from the SW of the station. But both give great views of the vallee.
When To Climb
Fou is generally viewed as a summer climb but anything is possible (these days).
As in most of this area over night Bivi's are ok and do not raise much attention. But be sure to leave the area as you found it (sorry i know i don't need to tell you that).
CAMP SITES IN THE AREA
>>L'ile Des Barrats
185 Chemin de I'ile des Barrats
04 5053 5144
Open from 8/5-1/10 53 sites 3 star
121 clos des Rosieres
04 5053 1042 www.campinglesrosieres.com
open from 7/2 - 30/9 127 sites 3 star
281 chemin du Cry
04 5053 1430
15/6 - 30/9 30 sites 2 stars
Chemin a Batiorert
04 5053 1681
open 1/6 - 15/9 164 sites 2 stars
La Mer De Glace
200 Chemin de la Bagna
04 5053 0863 or 04 5053 4403
open 10/6 - 15/9 150 sites 3 stars
04 50 53 4920
open 28/3 - 30/9 70 sites 2 stars
>>Glacier d' Argentiere
58 Chemin des Moillettes
04 5054 1736 or 04 5054 0373
open 15/5 - 30/9 80 sites 2 stars
>>Les Deux Glaciers
80 rte des Tissieres
04 5053 1584
open 15/12 - 15/11 135 sites 3 stars
140 Chemin des Doux
04 5053 6124
open 15/6 - 30/9 100 sites 3 stars
28 route des Tissieres
04 5053 5893
open 1/6 - 30/9 100 sites 2 stars
>> Les Ecureuils
Chemin des Doux
04 5053 8311
open 1/4 - 30/9 45 sites 2 stars
180 route des Tissieres
04 5053 1584
open 1/6 - 15/9 70 sites 2 stars
>> Le Grand Champ
04 5053 0483
open 1/5 - 10/10 100 sites 1 star
The best idea is to head to the Guides office and go to the top floor at get weather forecasts (left at the top of the stairs) as well as up to date route information (right at the top of the stairs),
Office de Haute Montagne.. open 9am-12noon then 3pm till 6pm
Radio Frequency 154.4625 Mhz
phone +33(0)450 531689
OR European emergency number any mobile phone 112
- mountain guide
climbing in mont blanc