|South Side of Grand Capucin - Photo by Antonio Giani|
In memory of Rahel Maria Liu, the former maintainer of this page. Rahel died on the Innominata Spur to Mont Blanc in a snow storm on August 24th, 2004.
|On the glacier||View of Mont Blanc||Bivouac||UFO above Mont Blanc||Grand Capucin|
GRAND CAPUCIN - a red granite tower on the Gèant Glacier
- The Grand Capucin (3838 m) is an extraordinary red granite tower in the Mont Blanc MASSIF. It has an E face rising steeply out of the Géant Glacier.
The famous granite tower is an unique monolith in the Mont Blanc Area.
The Grand Capucin is situated at the end of the east side of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
You can't miss it when you go from the Aiguille du Midi to the Rifugio Torino. It is a wonderful rock obelisk on the Glacier du Géant.
- Particularly noticeable are the rows of overhangs which at one time suggested it was unclimbable, but Bonatti found a winding route which goes over some of the overhangs, but in general works its way up between the great roofs; the climbing is quite literally, geometrically vertical, something quite exceptional on granite.
Although its faces are not higher than 490 m and although the mountain can be seen only from the summits around, it has been interesting for rock climbers since 40 years.
|Grand Capucin Routes||Grand Capucin (3838 m) - Photos by Antonio Giani|
GRAND CAPUCIN ROUTES (Photos by Antonio Giani)
- A= Blue Route "Elixir d'Astaroth". Difficulty ED+/6A/A2
B= Red Route "Walter Bonatti". Difficulty TD+/V+/A1/A2
C= Green Route "Eau et gaz à tous les étages". Difficulty ED+/6C/A3/A4/
For the Routes compare the section Routes-Overview below.
- After the first climbing through the E face, done by Walter Bonatti and L. Ghigo from 20th to 23rd of July 1951 (with the equipment of the 50ies ... respect!!), the Bonatti route
has been the goal of extreme climbers for a long time. 1981 and later, there have been arranged very difficult sport climbing routes, which are the attraction to the climbers today.
Besides the "Triple Directe", it is especially the route "Voyage selon Gulliver", which is interesting. The first ascent of the summit was undertaken by E. Augusto, Adolphe and
Henri Rey and L. Lanier on 24. July 1924.
Crevasses, rockfall and bad weather
- There are deep crevasses in the area of the Géant Glacier. And falling stones on the fine rock routes to the summit of Grand Capucin are very dangerous. Pay attention to crevasses and stonefall!
Sometimes the weather changes very quickly, a great and serious danger - to be caught on the summit in a heavy storm.
To the Grand Capucin (Cirque Maudit):
- You can come from the Refuge Les Cosmiques.
You can come from the Rifugio Torino.
To the Refuge Les Cosmiques:
- In order to reach the hut, you need about 1/2 h from the Aig. du Midi. If you leave the cable car station via the bridge, you go to the South summit. On the firn ridge, you go down in SE direction of an even ridgeplatform; then turn right to the S and in SW direction below the S face of the Aig. du Midi. Pay attention to crevasses!
You reach the Aig. du Midi with cable car from Chamonix.
To the Rifugio Torino
- You reach the hut directly with the cable car from Entrève/Courmayeur (Italy).
You can reach the hut directly also with the Helbronner cable car from the Aiguille du Midi (to Aiguille du Midi with the cable car from Chamonix).
- Or you go on foot from the Aiguille du Midi over the glacier du Géant (3 h): From the foot of the S face of the Aiguille du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Now you turn to the ESE to the Col des Flambeaux. From here in a few minutes to the Refugio Torino. It is a very beautiful glacier walk with 200 hm ascent. Difficulty: F.
You reach Courmayeur through the Mont Blanc tunnel from Chamonix.
You reach Chamonix with train, bus or car from Geneva or Martigny (Switzerland).
To the Cirque Maudit
- You reach the Cirque Maudit from the Aig. du Midi or the Ref. Cosmiques: From the foot of the S face of the Aig. du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Then you go either with a big detour to the north face of the Tour Ronde or quite directly up to the Col de Trident and the Cirque Maudit. Attention: Here are more crevasses!
You reach the Cirque Maudit from the Rifugio Torino: From the Col du Géant near the Rif. Torino: You traverse the Col des Flambeaux and descend the glacier in direction of the Mont Maudit. Then you go along the Aiguille de Toule and the north face of the Tour Ronde to the Cirque Maudit which is built by the Arête de la Brenva, the Mont Maudit and the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
|Tour Ronde - Mont Blanc - Kuffner Ridge - Mont Maudit - Grand Capucin - Petit Capucin - Pic Adolphe Rey (Photo by Rahel Maria Liu) - Show labels|
You reach the Chamonix Valley by train:
- From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.
From Geneva (airport) via Anncey (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.
You reach the Chamonix Valley by bus:
- From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin
You reach the Chamonix Valley by car:
- From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205.
From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.
You reach the Val Ferret (Italy) by bus or car:
- From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.
From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.
- GRAND CAPUCIN - E Face - N Face - W Face seen from the Kuffner Ridge - S Face - in front of Mont Blanc - Photos by gabriele, om, kiss istván, ben jammin and as
|East Side||North Side||West Side of Grand Capucin||South Side||Mont Blanc glowing|
Institut Géographique National
- 1:25000 no. 3630 OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
Instituto Geografico Centrale
- 1:25000 no. 165107 IGC Monte Bianco
Mappa Courmayeur cartina
Hikr.org - Courmayeur, Dent du Géant
UKC - Grand Capucin
- Hartmut Eberlein, Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer, 2000 or 2012, amazon.de (look at the contents Grand Capucin)
Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. amazon.com (look at the contents Grand Capucin)
Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996. ISBN 1-898573-03-4. amazon.de or amazon.com (Look at the contents)
Lindsay Griffin, Mont Blanc Massif, Vol. 2 - Published Alpine Club (2002). amazon.com
Lindsay Griffin, Mont Blanc Massif, Vol. 1 - Published Alpine Club - London (1990). amazon.com
Gino Buscaini, MONTE BIANCO, Vol. I, Guida dei Monti d'Italia, 1994. stella-alpina.com
|The mighty Mont Blanc - Mont Maudit - Grand Capucin in the foreground - Mont Blanc du Tacul - Aiguille du Midi|
- Phone: 0033/836680274
Snowinfo: 0033/836 681 020 (only in France)
- Office de Haute Montagnes (OHM)/
- Phone: 0033450 532 208
Bureau des Guides in Chamonix
- Phone: 0033/450530088
Guide Alpine Courmayeur
Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur
TRAIN CHAMONIX VALLEY
- Phone: 0033/450 53 1298 - 0033/8 36 35 35 35 -
0033/450530702 (Train station Chamonix)
BUS CHAMONIX VALLEY
- Phone: 0033/450 53 0555 - 0033/450 53 0115
Cable Cars and the Pano Gondola Photos by Hiltrud Liu - om - Rahel Maria Liu
|Cable car 2007||Shadow||Cable car 1967||Géant Glacier||Pano Gondola|
Les Cosmiques (3613 m)
|The refuge Les Cosmiques is situated on a shoulder between the Col du Midi and the SW ridge of the Aiguille du Midi (Cosmiques ridge).|
- 120 beds
guarded from mid-February to mid-October
Rifugio Torino (3322m/3375m)
|The Rifugio Torino has 2 huts, the lower and older one and the upper, new one. Both huts are connected by a tunnel.|
- 180 beds
guarded from mid-February to mid-October
|Grand Capucin||Mont Blanc||Glacier du Géant|
|E Face||Bonatti R||back||Gr Cap|
O Sole Mio (S face):
- VII+, mostly VI and VII. Passages VII-. ED. 280 hm, 6 h (Eberlein)
Swiss route (Voie des Suisses):
- VII, A 0 (1 passage), mostly V+ and VI. ED-. 280 hm, 6 h (Eberlein)
|B Sauer||Climbing||S summit||Ascent||Old artif||Up|
Souire de l'Eté:
- VII, A 2, mostly VI and VI+. ED. 280 hm, 6 h (Eberlein)
Voyage selon Gulliver:
- VIII-, A 0 (swinging traverse), mostly VI+ and VII. ABO-. 300 hm, 6-8 h (Eberlein)
- VI+, A 4, mostly A 2 and A 3, ED+, 400 hm (you should plan a bivouac!) (Eberlein)
- VII+, A 3, mostly VI and VI+, ED+, 400 hm (Eberlein)
Directe des Capucines:
- VII+, mostly VI+ adn VII-, passages A 0 or A 1 at the end, ED+, 400 hm, 10 h (Eberlein)
- VIII, mostly VII, ABO, 400 hm, 10 h (Eberlein)
- Abseiling down, mostly through the route "O Sole Mio"
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
GRAND CAPUCIN ROUTES (Photo by Antonio Giani)
Link - MountainArea
Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur
Guide Alpine - Courmayeur - Itay