Mont Maudit : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Sometimes the Mont Maudit is debased to be only a satellite of the Mont Blanc instead of an independent goal of climbers. But this judgement is not justified at all since the Mont Maudit has a lot of very interesting and difficult couloirs. It is an important climbing mountain of the Mont Blanc MASSIF. The ice-balconies of the Mont Maudit are only one part. It is the "tame" side with direction to the West and Northwest. You traverse these glacier flanks if you climb the Mont Blanc via the Mont Blanc du Tacul starting from the Aiguille du Midi. As part of this Mont Blanc route, the Mont Maudit (which lies in the Northeast of the Mont Blanc, 1,8 km far away from the main summit of the Mont Blanc) is interesting for "normal" alpinists who usually climb 4000m peaks. On this way, it takes already 6 to 7 hours from the Aiguille du Midi via the Mont Blanc du Tacul.

The first climbers were the british people Henry Seymour King and William Edward Davidson on the 12th of september 1878 who were guided by the Bernense Johann Jaun d. J. and Johann von Bergen. The normal ascent from the Col du Mont Maudit is the NW-ridge which is 250 m long. It is mixed, partly I+ , and takes 40 minutes. The Pointe Mieulet (4287m) which lies in the NW of the saddle is not an independent mountain.

The Southeast-side is totally different from these tame glacier flanks in the West and Northwest. The SE-side of the Mont Maudit is similar to the rock scenery of the South-side of the Mont Blanc and the East-side of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The Southeast of the Mont Maudit with its many couloirs, pillars, edges and faces is a very big challenge to climbers. It is really magnificent and beautiful. Well known is the 1,6 km long Kuffner ridge (SE-ridge) which has been climbed first by Moritz von Kuffner together with the guides Alexander Burgener and Joseph Furrer from the 2nd to the 4th of July 1887. Until 1930, the chronicler registered only 4 repetitions. The second climb of this ridge happened 1901, undertaken by the italian climbers E. Canzio and F. Mondini with Henri Brocherel. Member of the 3rd climb in 1911 was the well-known George Leigh Mallory who disappeared on the Everest 1924. In this case of the Kuffner ridge, Mallory climbed as the scholar of his english teacher R. L. G. Irving. One cannot point to this ridge emphatically enough, since it is one of the greatest routes in the Mont Blanc region but still today appreciated not very much. It has the difficulty of III and IV and needs at least 7 to 8 hours from the Bivacco Ghiglione which is situated in the Col du Trident.

The Crétier-route through the SE-face is interesting for people who look for loneliness. It was climbed for the first time in 1932 by Renato Chabod, Amilcare Crétier and L. Binel. 1978 was the year of the "Direttissima": more than 550 m with VI+. The first winter ascent was undertaken by Patrick Gabarrou and H. Bongard on the 12th of February 1986 in 12 hours. Less important is the Bonatti-Ferrario-Oggioni-Route (20th of August 1959) through the E-face of the SE-shoulder.

The Mont Maudit has almost 40 different routes, that means almost as many as the Mont Blanc (not counting the routes to the foresummits) and only a few less than the about 45 routes of the Mont Blanc du Tacul (not counting the routes to the many foresummits). Nevertheless, the difficult and challenging climbing routes of the Mont Maudit are much less know than the famous and often climbed routes of the N- and E-side of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The reason for this is easily to understand: You need much less time in order to reach the routes of the Mont Blanc du Tacul than those of the Mont Maudit, and after the climb, you are back at your starting point quite quickly. You can also avoid the crevasses of the NW-flank of the Mont Blanc du Tacul totally if you abseil down through the Chèrécouloir of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.

For the Routes compare the section Routes-Overview below.

Routes-Overview

1. N/NW-side

NW-ridge/-flank (normal route): till 48°, I+ at the NW-ridge; from the Aig. du Midi 6-7h, 920 hm, mostly glacier tour (Dumler, p. 218)

NE-ridge: 40°, PD, mixed, III- (passages), mostly II. 430 hm, 3 h from the Col Maudit, 5,5 - 6 h from the Aig. du Midi (Eberlein, p. 139)

Northflank: 45°, PD+, pure firn/ice ascent, average of steepness: 35°. 1,5 - 3 h for the flank. From the Aig. du Midi 4 - 6 h (Eberlein, p. 139)

2. Cirque Maudit

Arête Kuffner (79a): II D. 600m

Choucas Blanc (79b): II 2. 350m

Voie Surprise (79c): III 4+, 5a. 400m

Couloir de la Consolation (79d): II 3. 450m

Surcouf (79e): II 5. 250m

Couloir Comino-Grassi-Miotti (79f): II 4. 350 m

Grand Couloir de l'Androsace (79g): III 4. 500m

Fille ou Garcon (79h): III 4+, 4b. 500 m

Voie des Blaireaux (79i): III 4+. 500m

Directissime Roger Baxter Jones (79j): III 4. 500m

Voie Anderson (79k): III D. 400m

Fil d'Ariane (79l): III 5. 350 m

Fantasia per a Ghiacciator (79m): V 5+, 6a. 400m

Goulotte Comino-Grassi (79n): III 4. 300m

Voie Lacrima Degli Angeli (79o): III 5. 350m

Sérac du Col Maudit (79p): V 5 to 6. 350m

Voie Gugliermina (79q): V D. 350 m

3. Glacier de la Brenva

Couloir SE (80a): IV 4+. 700m

Rencontre au Sommet (80b): IV 4+. 700m

Carroz d'As (80c): IV 5. 700m

Voie Cretier (voie des Italiens) (80d): IV D+, 4c. 700m

Dom (80e): V 6. 700m

Couloir E (80f): IV D. 600m

Eperon E (4361m)(80g): IV M. 600m

Voie Diagonale (80h): IV D. 700m

Country couloir (80i): IV 5

Overcouloir (80j): IV 5. 700m

Voie Griffin-Torrens (80k): III D. 700m

Bonnet d'Anne (80l): IV 5. 700m

Tableau d'Honneur (80m): III 4. 700m

Né dans la Pierre (80n): IV 5. 700m

Goulotte SE (80o): III 5. 700m

Goulotte Twight-Ghersen (80p): III 4, 5a, 700m

Voie Domenech-Hanoteau, arête SE (80q): III D. 700m

Couloir du Bicentenaire (80r): III 5. 700m

4. Pointe Mieulet (4285m)

NW-face: Pas si maudit que ca! (81a): III 4. 400m

(2.-4. according to Damilano/Perroux, pp. 306-328; for other valuations of the routes compare the exact route-discription. The pages 307, 309-311, 313, 315, 317, 319, 321-324 and 327 of Damilano/Perroux provide pictures of all routes. The numbers in brackets behind the names of the routes mark the number on these pictures. )

Getting There

1. To the Mont Maudit

a. You can come from the Ref. Cosmiques/Biv. Abri Simond via the Mont Blanc du Tacul. (Compare the route discription of the NE-ridge and the N-flank.)

b. You can come from the Biv. Ghiglione.

c. You can come from the Fourchebivouac. But according to Dumler (1998), you cannot use it anymore because there was a subcidence of the ground (1988). You may check the following links for further information: Biv. Fourche or altaquota . **If you have any new and secure information concerning this bivouac, please tell me! Thanks.**

d. You can come from the Rif. Torino to the Circuit Maudit (Compare the discription of the way to the Biv. Ghiglione.)

2. To the Ref. Cosmiques and the Biv. Abri Simond:

In order to reach the hut, you need about 1/2 h from the Aig. du Midi. If you leave the cable car station via the bridge, you go to the Southsummit. On the firn ridge, you go down with SE-direction to an even ridgeplatform; then turn right to the S and SW-direction below the S-face of the Aig. du Midi. Pay attention to crevasses!

You reach the Aig. du Midi with cable car from Chamonix.

3. To the Rif. Torino

You reach the hut directly with the cable car from Entrèves/Courmayeur (Italy).

You can reach the hut directly also with the Helbronner cable car from the Aiguille du Midi (to Aiguille du Midi with the cable car from Chamonix). Pay attention: The Helbronner cable car, traversing the Géant glacier, is mostly closed.

Or you go on foot from the Aiguille du Midi over the glacier du Géant (3 h): From the foot of the S-face of the Aig. du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E-face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E-face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Now you turn to the ESE to the Col des Flambeaux. From here in a few minutes to the Ref. Torino. It is a very beautiful glacier walk with 200 hm ascent. Difficulty: F.

4. To the Biv. Ghiglione

a. You reach the bivouac from the Rif. Torino in 2 - 3 hours. It is a difficult ice ascent (AD, 50°): From the Col du Géant near the Rif. Torino: You traverse the Col des Flambeaux and descent the glacier with direction to the Mont Maudit. Then you go along the Aig. de Toule and the northface of the Tour Ronde to the Cirque Maudit which is built by the Arête de la Brenva, the Mont Maudit and the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Now you go to the bergschrund of the icehang which leads to the Col du Trident. You climb across the mostly difficult bergschrund and either on the left along the rock (fixed rope) or directly over the firnhang to the Col.

b. You reach the bivouac from the Aig. du Midi or the Ref. Cosmiques or the Biv. Abri Simond in 3 hours: From the foot of the S-face of the Aig. du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Point Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E-face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E-face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Then you go either with a big detour to the northface of the Tour Ronde or quite directly up to the Col de Trident and the Cirque Maudit. Attention: Here are more crevasses!

5. You reach the Chamonix Valley by train:

a. From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.

b. From Geneva (airport) via Anncey (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.

6. You reach the Chamonix Valley by bus:

From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin

7 . You reach the Chamonix Valley by car:

a. From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205.

b. From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.

8. You reach the Val Ferret (Italy) by bus or car:

a. From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.

b. From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.

Red Tape

There are no permits or fees required. There is no seasonal closure. Only the Helbronner Cable Car is mostly closed because of ecological reasons. There is a big parking place in Chamonix near the Cable Car ground station. But if there are winter sport sessions in Chamonix, it might be closed. Then it is really difficult to find a parking place.

When To Climb

You can climb the Mont Maudit all the year. In winter, you can also go by ski via the NW-side, depot at the Col du Mont Maudit. During winter, the advantage for the climbs of the couloirs is less danger of rock and ice fall. But the problem is the coldness! Be aware that it could be -30°C! The danger of getting frostbites is very high!

Camping

There is a campingplace in Chamonix.

Mountain Conditions and General Infos

1. WEATHER INFOS:

Météo France in Chamonix: 0033/836680274
Snowinfos: 0033/836 681 020 (only in France, not from abroad)
internet: Météo France

2. GENERAL INFOS:

Office de Haute Montagnes (OHM)/Chamonix:
0033450 532 208 (9:00-12:00 & 15:00-18:00 during the summer)
Bureau des Guides in Chamonix: 0033/450530088.
Office de Tourisme in Chamonix: 0033/450530024
Office de Tourisme Argentière: 0033/450540214
internet:
www.chamonix.com
www.courmayer-montblanc.com

www.aiguilledumidi.com

3. TRAIN (CHAMONIX VALLEY):

www.cff.ch

4. BUS (CHAMONIX VALLEY):

5. CABLE CARS

Aiguille du Midi: 0033/450/533080
Courmayeur: Tel. 00390/165.846658, Fax 00390/165.842347

Accomodation

1. Ref. des Cosmiques (3613 m)

The Ref. des Cosmiques is situated on a shoulder between the Col du Midi and the SW-ridge of the Aig. du Midi (Cosmiques-ridge).

Eberlein

140 beds

guarded from February till october

phone: ++33(0)450544016

internet: Rif. Cosmiques

2. Abri Simond Bivouac

The Abri Simond Bivouac is situated just a few meters northern of the Ref. des Cosmiques, just at the beginning of the Arête des Cosmiques.

18 beds

open in winter, when Ref. des Cosmiques is closed

a few words: I can highly recommend this little bivouac hut of about 30 qm!!! I have stayed there for 1 week in winter (January/February). I promise you: Never in life, you will forget this experience ... when it is -30°C outside, and stormy with 120 km/h, without toilette of course, without heating, without light, without water of course, the hut never been cleaned, you almost poisoned with the vapours of the many gasoline stoves burning hours and hours .... well you must experience it by yourself .... one just cannot describe it!!!

3. Rif. Torino (3322m/3375m)

The Rif. Torino has 2 huts, the lower and older one and the upper, new one. Both huts are connected by a tunnel.

the lower old one

Eberlein

with 70 beds

serviced from October to June

Tel. 00390/165/846484

internet: Rif.Torino.old

the upper new one

Eberlein

with 170 beds

serviced from June to September

Tel. 00390/165/844034 (expensive)

internet: Rif.Torino.new

4. The Bivacco Lucia e Piero Ghiglione (3690m)

The Biv. Ghiglione is situated on the Col du Trident at the SE-ridge.

18 beds (Dumler (german), p. 218)

always open

not guarded anymore (Eberlein), according to Dumler (german) (p. 218): guarded from 20th June to 20th September

internet: Biv. Ghiglione

5. Bivouac de la Fourche (3679m)

The Biv. Fourche is also called Biv. Alberico e Borgna. It is situated on the italian side of the Col de la Fourche.

Eberlein

10 beds

not guarded

difficult ice ascent, AD

internet: Biv. Fourche or altaquota

according to Dumler (german) (p. 218) not useable!!!

Maps

Institut Géographique National

Books

Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Chamonix: Editions Ice, 1996.
ISBN 2950986803
(to order at cordee.co.uk)

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998.
ISBN 3-7633-7427-2
(to order at amazon.de)

Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1994.
ISBN 0898863783
(to order at amazon.com)

Hartmut Eberlein: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. DAV-Gebietsführer. 9th ed. Munich 2000.
ISBN 3-7633-2414-3
(to order at amazon.de)

Goedeke, Richard: The Alpine 4000m peaks by the Classic Routes. Birmingham: Menacha Ridge Press, 1997.
ISBN 0897321111
(to order at amazon.com)

Laroche/Lelong: Die Gipfel des Montblanc. Munich 1999.
ISBN 3-405-15693-9
(to order at amazon.de)

Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996.
ISBN 1-898573-03-4
(to order at amazon.de or at amazon.com)

Dedication to Rahel

This page has been build by Rahel Maria Liu who loved this mountain. I will maintain the page in her memory with only a few updates when necessary.

Brenva side (Italy) pictures

Combe Maudite side pictures

Northern side (Col Maudit) pictures

West side (Col de la Brenva, French side) pictures

NW side (Glacier des Bossons, Pointe Durier) pictures

Pictures from Aiguille du midi

Sunset and sunrise on mont Maudit

Other pictures

External Links

Mont Maudit routes (1)
Some Mont Maudit routes
Mont Maudit routes (2)
More Mont Maudit routes
Mont Maudit routes (3)
Küffner ridge
mountain guide
Report of the opening of a new route (Éperon Gousseault) on Mont Maudit (in German)
www.MountainArea.com
111 photos of the 3 Mont Blanc Traverse including the opening of the new route

Éperon Gousseault by Ivano Ghirardini and Rahel Maria Liu on July 28, 2002.
Yvano page About the Liu route on Eperon Goussault
Emouvant hommage à 2 grands Alpinistes
Mont Maudit at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
A Mountain Guide team will help you to realize your mountain and adventure dreams . A Mountain Guide team in Chamonix propose : mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.

intercarto.fr 3D Mont Blanc Massif Map

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]

Viewing: 1-2 of 2

Diego Sahagún

Untitled Comment

Voted 10/10

First you must follow the Grands Mulets Route included in the Mont Blanc Page. Then, according to Lindsay Griffin in the book "Mont Blanc Massif. Volume I" from Alpine Club 3rd ed, page 56: cross Grand Plateau to the foot of the Corridor, a snowy vallley between the lower Rochers Rouges and Mt Maudit. Either climb the slope between the lower Rochers Rouges and a small rocky rognon (3.928 m) below (this is quicker, easier to find but more prone to avalanche and has a certain danger from serac fall), or climb between the rognon and Mt Maudit (difficult route-finding through crevassed terrain)". This approach permits you to accede to Col de la Brenva. From here follow the Mont Blanc-Maudit traverse. Difficulty: PD

Posted Mar 13, 2002 9:53 am

Chucky

Untitled Comment

Hasn't voted

According to a sign I saw posted on Aiguille du Midi, persons can set up tents pretty much any place they choose on the mountain, free of charge, provided the tents are up after sunset and down after sunrise. During the week of 10-13 September, 2002, I noted a number of tents up at "high noon," in the Col du Midi. No one seemed to care and I certainly did not see anyone out there performing official duties, fining campers, or ordering them to depart the area.

Posted Sep 14, 2002 1:46 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2

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