The Pointe Durier is a sharp sharktooth-like rock peak sticking out of the North-West face of the Mont Maudit, overlooking the Bossons Glacier. It is clearly visible from the Chamonix valley. The routes on the North ridge, West- and Southwest-face are about 400 meters in length.
The Pointe Durier is a very difficult peak to climb, it therefore has a very limited number of (recorded) ascents. About 10 climbers have reached it's summit so far. Among them former Summitpost member Ivano Ghirardini, who opened a new route on it. The first recorded climb dates back to 1905, when E. Fontaine, J. Ravanel and L. Tournier, 3 Chamonix mountain guides, climbed the normal route.
The granite is the best to be found in the Mont Blanc-range. The West face is even made of such compact granite that it is yet unclimbed. Putting bolts in the Pointe Durier and spoiling the terrific granite probably won't make you popular among the Chamonix' climbing community..
Best approach is from the col de Maudit, by a rappel descent through the steep couloir on it's north side. Better don't approach the Pointe Durier from the Grandes Mulets-hut, there are frequent avalanches coming down from the Mont Blanc north face.
For getting in Chamonix, see the Mont Blanc and Mont Blanc GROUP pages.
When To Climb
Best climbing is from june to september. Make sure you have a window of about 3 days of good weather, because of the difficulty of the climb. Of course, you'll also need time to approach the peak.
At the base of the west face there is an excellent bivouac spot on a terasse with great views.
For refuges and huts, see the Mont Blanc and Mont Blanc GROUP pages. The Cosmiques hut will probably be the hut of interest.
For Mountain conditions, see the Mont Blanc and Mont Blanc GROUP pages.
- mountain guide
hard routes with a guide
Short route description of the Mazeaud-Tsinant route.