Alimony, 5.10+, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Alimony is one of the shorter and less committing routes in the Black.  It is ideal for a rest day or half day in the Black.  Retreat in case of emergency is possible as there are no raps involved on approach, which off of the south rim is less the norm vs the easier gullies down the north rim.  It is a great route in that all three of its pitches follow consistent cracks in the wall vs wandering over a broad face to connect systems.  The local guide has this route listed a 5.9.  However, I would guess that the 5.10+ variation is surely the FA as it is by far the most logical line.  The 5.9 option on pitch two seems contrived to me.  The 5.10+ variation is in direct line with where you end pitch one and is a fantastic, albeit short, pitch of well protected climbing at the grade.

The approach description in the local guide as well as on MP.com are deficient to say the least regarding how to locate the correct, chockstone wedged, narrow gully.  The simpler way of describing how to locate the proper gully is to park at Paint Wall Overlook.  Hike northwest along the road, immediately passing a large gully that heads down to the river.  The next obvious gully, from the road, heading down is located right before you get to the Cedar Point Overlook sign.  Now backtrack along the road and cut through the oak scrub aiming for the south rim that juts out in between these two obvious gullies.  You cannot identify the approach gully from the road.  Just get to the rim and trek back south until you can make out the huge chockstone that touches both walls of a narrower gully then the two before mentioned gullies.  You can clearly see the chockstone before you start any descent.  Do some easy 4^th class down climbing to enter the gully and follow a well-trodden climber’s trail underneath the chockstone and down to an obvious tower on your left.  The first pitch starts on the left side of this tower.  Being only three pitches in length, this is a relatively benign approach by south rim standards.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 130’-5.9/ An outstanding pitch by Black Canyon standards.  It is long and sustained at the grade, climbing a clean wide corner with a variety of climbing disciplines engaged.  Takes a full single rack to #6 along with plenty of slings.  This is an aesthetic pitch.  The crux might be the first third I suppose.  Definitely more of a 5.9 than 5.8, the local guide calls it 5.8/9.  I led the 5.10+ direct variation 2^nd pitch and thought that it was softly graded in comparison to calling the first pitch 5.9-.  Well protected and cool movement including a great belay atop the scenic detached portion of the tower you are climbing.  One could set up a tent on its summit. This belay atop the tower catches a ton of sun in September despite all three pitches along with the wall they reside on staying shady the whole day.  Interesting sun angles in this portion of the canyon. 

2^nd Pitch- 70’-5.10+/ One would be foolish not to do this direct variation.  It is in line with the 1^st pitch and offers a clean and well protected off-width experience with hands at the roof crux.  This grade seemed soft compared to calling the first pitch 5.8 vs 5.9 which some do.  I have led much harder 5.10+ OW’s in the desert.  The crux via the local guide is the roof, but there is a solid hand jam pulling the roof followed by a good stem.  The arm bars below are no doubt more difficult for many.  The original line might be the rightward variation which is more contrived, meaning if it is the original, the FAer’s did not want to tackle the much more obvious direct line.  Several more meters of climbing after the roof pull below grade in a 5.8 crack lead to the belay.  The belay atop the 2nd pitch is off a large flake on a comfortable narrow gully ledge.  No reason to walk climbers left to the base of the chimney pitch as there is no pro to set up a belay over there.  Rather it is easy to lead the chimney pitch from the flake with minimal rope drag.  A single #4-#6 are essential for this direct variation of the 2^nd pitch. 

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.8/ Average chimney climbing that is plagued by mossy rock.  Nothing extraordinary about it but it is relatively sustained at the grade.  Starts at the far climbers-left end of the narrow ledge that houses the belay flake for the top of pitch 2.  There is no reason to have packs on for such a short route, but I realize some generations seem to find comfort in always having one with.  Any pack will be a pain in the chimney.  A true chimney pitch with flaky mossy rock, but fun movement.  Enough features found to keep it 5.8.  Don’t need the large cams, most of the pro is smaller to medium gear.  Tops out at a great lunch spot on the rim.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Walk back to the car.

Essential Gear

60m Rope.  Single rack to #6.  The #4-#6 are essential for the 5.10+ pitch and can be easily used on pitch one as well.  Ten shoulder length slings.  Route stays mostly shaded.