OverviewHuarapasca is a rarely climbed 17,757 ft/ 5420m high mountain. What makes it an attractive objective is that it can be climbed with a very short approach from the car. The two principle routes are a more technical one from the south and an easier from the southeast. The mountain can be climbed all year.
Getting ThereFrom Huaraz the mountain is approximately 2 h car ride away. Go south on the main road (3N) approximately 45 km, then turn east onto the dirt road of Carretera a Pastoruri for another 26 km, at the fork go left for another 7 km if you are planning on the southeast route.
The southeast route starts from the sharp bend in the road. The bottom of the glacier is approximately 1km scramble up the gully on the rocky terrain. Head up towards the rock face, the glacier on its left will be visible from a bit higher up. Bellow the glacier the route traverses briefly is an approximately 20% angle snow field. First there are about 5 pitches of steeper terrain, then the glacier flattens out, followed by 2 more steeper pitches to the summit. From the summit great views of the Cordillera Huayhuash.
When we climbed there was well consolidated snow on the whole route, all we needed was a few pickets for pro, and two tools to climb.
The route, red lines are the steeper sections
Google street view from where we parked