OverviewQuitaraju is situated south-eastwards of Alpamayo. Obviously Quitaraju does not get half as much attention as Alpamayo does. By the time I was in Peru, there have been 10 or even more parties climbing the Alpamayo, but only one negotiated Quitaraju. We changed our planes accordingly, and climbed Quitaraju, on which whole North face was just for us. It is a really nice mountain with great views of it's south face, the Alpamayo, Artesonrajo, Huascaran(s), Chopicalqui... The easiest route is W ridge, graded AD, but very very long, sustained and steep in places. North face is really nice, being graded D, 700m, inclination of about 55° degrees. Different variants have different grades, so a tougher climber could find some 60-70 degree climbing going some 50m left or right from the arete in upper part of the face.
Fly to Lima. Coming from Europe it is suggested that you choose an airline using the "piece system", wich allows you to take two pieces of luggage, 32kg each, with you.
These are some of the hostels in Lima:
-Albergue José Luis. Av. Francisco Paula Ugarriza 727. Miraflores. Ph. 444 1015. 12 $ Breakfast Included. -Youth Hostel. Av.Casimiro Ulloa 328, Miraflores. Ph. 446 5488. 10$ Share room and 29.50$ Single Room. -Albergue España. Asanca 205, Downtown Lima. Ph. 428 5546. 10Sl. Share Roomy and 30Sl. Single Room. -Mochileros. Pedro de Osma 135, Barranco. Ph. 477 4506.10$ Share room and 25 Single room. Both breakfast included. -Albergue Los lirios. Los lirios 165, San Isidro. Ph. 442 0162. 6$
If no luck in getting a bed in Lima in any of the places above listed it is always possible to get a room from 10$-30$ somewhere else. Other possiblity is taking the bus directly to Huaraz, they leave from 8 to 10 in the morning or from 8 to 10 at night. From Lima the bus to Huaraz will take aprox. 8h. There are several bus companies and most of them will charge for extraweight.
-Mobil Tours, Paseo de la república 646. Lima. Ph. Lima: 332 0024, 332 0004. Ph. Huaraz: 722 555. -Cruz del Sur, Jr.Quilca 531 Cercado de Lima. Ph. Lima: 425 0887. Ph. Huaraz: 724390. -Ormeño S.A., Av.Carlos Zavala 177. Lima 1. Ph. Lima: 427 5679, Fax: 426 3810. Ph. Huaraz: 721 102. -Expreso Cial, Jr.Cotabambas 299. Lima. Ph. Lima :428 5218, 426 7264. Ph. Huaraz: 729 253. -Rodriguez S.A, Av.Roosevelt 354. Lima. Ph. 428 0506, 326 5724. Ph. Huaraz: 721 353.
Once in Huaraz we can find dozens of hostels and getting a bed from 3$-5$ will not be that hard. Here are the most popular ones:
-Casa Yuri, Leonisa y Lescano 666, Huaraz (just by "Plaza Armas") Ph. 723 158, E-mail: email@example.com y firstname.lastname@example.org 3$ -Casa Zarela, Jr. Julio Arguedas 1263, La Soledad, Huaraz Ph. 721 694, E-mail: email@example.com y firstname.lastname@example.org 5$ -El Tambo, Av. Confraternidad Internacional Oeste 122, Huaraz (nerby the soccer field of Rosas Pampa), Good Cooking. Ph. 682 449, E-mail: email@example.com 3$
In High Season it is recomended to book in advance.
Getting There, BASE CAMPThe valley that takes you to the Alpamayo/Quitarajo BC( which is at 4200m), is called Quintino Santa Cruz. It is a very popular trek through the valley, so expect lots of people, but still less then in Llanganuco. It is a very beautiful valley though, with blue lakes and a river. There are also waterfalls. You follow the route from the village of Cashapampa, where you can hire arrieros (donkey drivers) and burros (donkeys). The trail leads to the first camp, about 10km from the Cashapampa, and some 600m height difference. It takes about 4 hours. The following day you follow the trail for about 15km, another 500 heigt metres. Takes around 4-5 hours. Once reaching the basecamp, head for the left-situated tent platforms (looking into the valley) in order to get the early morning sun. Unfortunately we were outside the BC and waited two hours more than others, before the sun reached us. From here you ascend the steep moraine to the moraine camp. Start early in order to get a good pre-made tent platform on the moraine camp. There is little water, small strem, which has to be found! If you are really strong you could skip this part and head directly up to the Col camp, at 5400m. That would take you around 6-8 hours.
Red TapeThere are NO summit fees. There are, however, fees to go into the National Park. Costs 22 USD for 30 days. They are very strict.
When To ClimbBest to climb the mountain in June-July, some years it can be climbed as late as in August.
CampingCamping in Santa Cruz is only allowed at three designated areas. On the glacier, however, you can camp anywhere.
- Not far from Huaraz there are some sport climbing crags and boulders, look for: Recuay, Huanchac, Masuan, Monterrey y Laguna de Llanganuco.
- In Huaraz there are also some climbing stores that are not cheap.
- The notice board of Casa de Guias in Huaraz has a similar function to the one in Yosemite´s Camp 4. Also 'Casa de Guias' is the place to get information related to mountain and weather conditions.
- I suggest to use public transportation or 'Colectivos'.
- There is a very much trusted laundry service named 'B & B' located at 674, Av. José de la Mar.
- There are Internet facilities all over Huaraz.
- Best if you treat all water before you drink it.
Books & Climbing Magazines
- “Escaladas en los Andes (Guía de la Cordillera Blanca)” by Juan José Tomé Ñacle, Ed. Desnivel 1999.
- “La Cordillera Blanca de los Andes” by Antonio Gómez Bohórquez and Juan José Tomé Ñacle, Ed. Desnivel April 1998.
- Juanjo Tome´s article about La Cordillera Blanca published in the climbing magazine: Desnivel #140, may 1998.
- Rock&Ice #71 & #88, there is information relating La Cordillera Blanca.
- “Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru” by David M. Sharman, Ed. Whizzo Climbs 1995.
- “The High Andes (A Guide for Climbers)” by John Biggar, Ed. Andes 1996.
- “Yuraq Janka” de John F. Ricker, Ed. ¿? 1977.
All info gathered by:
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor
This is his website: www.todovertical.com
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