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Ishinca
Mountain/Rock

Ishinca

 
Ishinca

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Ancash, Peru, South America

Lat/Lon: 93.9222°S / 77.4064°W

Object Title: Ishinca

Elevation: 18143 ft / 5530 m

 

Page By: thomas.schmeidl

Created/Edited: Mar 19, 2002 / Jan 24, 2005

Object ID: 150901

Hits: 32617 

Page Score: 86.61%  - 23 Votes 

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Overview


Nevado Ishinca is a popular 5000-m-peak situated in between the 6000ers Ranrapalca and Palcaraju. Together with Urus, it is a often climbed for acclimatisation, as the BC in Q. Ishinca is easily accessable in one day from Huaraz.

The first ascent (from Quebrada Cojup, nowadays unusual) was reported in 1965. The usual routes from Quebrada Ishinca offer only minor difficulties.

Getting there and General Information about Cordillera Blanca and Huascaran National Park


See extra page "Cordillera Blanca"

Approach and Camp


From Huaraz take a shuttle or taxi to Collon (1h). If you aren't too late it should be no problem to hire arrieros ($10/day) and mules ($5/day) for the 5h-trek to Quebrada Ishinca BC (13k). To improve your fitness it's as well possible to hike to the BC without mules.

Another possible trailhead is Pashpa, some 30 min. above Colllon, reachable by minibus or by truck. Especially when you return from Ishinca this trail is very recommended as it offers great views of Huascaran and the C.B.


Quebrada Ishinca offers a wide area to put up your BC at about 4350m. It can serve for climbing Urus, Tocllaraju and even Ranrapalca.

There is also a refugio with sleeping places for rent and a small regional cantine. As this attracts even more people many climbers fear that the wonderful setting of the valley will be spoilt by the time.

Ishinca is usually climbed in one day from this BC. It is however possible to put up another camp at about 5000m (see below).

Route


Follow the trail leading up over moraines S of the BC: Follow the valley (Quebrada Yanaraju) aside a cascading stream. At 5000m you come to a small basin at the foot of a glacier coming down from Ishinca. There is a small lake (not to be confused with Laguna Ishinca, which is situated 100m above to the right). It is possible to set up a camp here. 2-3h from BC

From here you can see the summit (to the E) and trail diverges depending on the route you want to chose:

a) NW slopes (normal route, F): Follow the trail to the left to gain the toe of the glacier (visible from the bifurcation). Head up to the N-ridge, then turn right towards the summit pyramide. 2-3h

b) SW ridge (PD-): Follow the right branch of the trail up to the top of a moraine ridge (above laguna Ishinca). Follow this ridge, scramble up some scree slopes, gain the glacier and head up to the col between Ishnca and Ranrapalca (5300m). From there follow the SW ridge and finally climb the summit pyramide. 3-4h

On both routes the glacier is easy to pass (<30°, partially uncovered, some crevasses). The summit tower has a short,
steep section (50m, 40° resp. 50°, snow).

Miscellaneous


Equipment: One rope (50m), one ice axe, crampons.

Always be respectful of this fragile landscape. Carry-out any litter that you carry-in or that you find on the routes.

Treat all water thoroughly before you drink it!

External Links

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-3 of 3    
endrevekaUntitled Comment

Hasn't voted

Hi,





According to Brad Johnson's "Selected Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca" the NW Slopes is rated PD, while the SW Ridge is rated F. This is also the case in John Biggar's book on the Andes.





Regards, Endre
Posted Jul 14, 2004 4:33 pm
Rafa BartolomeUntitled Comment

Rafa Bartolome

Voted 10/10

O.K. totally with Endre.


More:


-the normal route is the SW of course (easiest, F)


-route c) ridge NE across the glacier over the laguna Ishinca to reach a little col over the glacier and take the ridge from there (grade PD).


According with book "Escaladas en los Andes" by JJ Tomé and my own climb to this mountain in the route c) in july 2004
Posted Aug 17, 2004 8:40 am
Rafa BartolomeCoordinates

Rafa Bartolome

Voted 10/10

Coordinates of the summit: it's not possible the 93 in south, it's out of the planet.

Coordinates in my gps in july of 2004:

-9.39122S

-77.40604W

Posted Jan 14, 2007 9:39 am

Viewing: 1-3 of 3    

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