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Briceljk

 
Briceljk

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.39504°N / 13.63171°E

Object Title: Briceljk

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Bouldering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7697 ft / 2346 m

 

Page By: borut

Created/Edited: Aug 19, 2014 / May 16, 2015

Object ID: 909602

Hits: 407 

Page Score: 81.69%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

Briceljk (2346 m) is the highest peak of the Loška Stena array, a group of mountains introduced on the Loška Stena page. The most famous view of Loška Stena is the one you get while driving down from the Predel pass on the Slovenian side. Upon reaching the village of Strmec, the view of Loška Stena - and especially the view of the Briceljk northwest face is striking.

Briceljk northwest face
Briceljk NW face (Koritnica Valley)

Routes on the NW face are the tallest of the group, and among the tallest in the Julian Alps. The drop to the village of Log pod Mangartom is 1700 m - the rock face reaching 1100 m.  Since 1930 (Cesar-Comici) and until recently, ten routes were opened on the wall - some in winter. There are also a few alternates, as well as five ice lines on the pedestal. For beta, please check the External Links section below. The famous hunter's route (Lovska smer, II-III, 1000 m) has been used throughout the centuries, as well as an ascent as a descent. It starts on Oltarji and next plays with the gully, the rib and the upper chimneys on the outer right (SW) of the Briceljk NW face. Note though that "Lovska" is also listed among climbs on Oltarji.


The Bala Valley side of Briceljk - E face and S face - is much less visible than the Koritnica Valley side, even along the standard ascent. In order to get a view of the Briceljk east (SE) face, one needs to hike up the Bala valley a few hours towards the Čez Brežiče col. For a better view of the south face, one must reach the Oltarji summit.

Briceljk (2346 m)
East (SE) face
Briceljk SW
South side

Getting There

 
Briceljk
Konrad Sus - Bavšica view

Bala Valley : Bavšica Trailhead (alt. 710 m)







Koritnica Valley : Log pod Mangartom (alt. 650 m)

Route

The standard ascent (Bala Valley) is an unmarked hunter's path that appears though in most maps. It is only recommended for hikers/scramblers well experienced with such paths. Cairns above tree line. If you are not experienced in path finding, consider appointing the services of a mountain guide.

Briceljk (Loška Stena)
View the route (above tree line and passed Stador): enlarge for indications of the path.


From the Bavšica trailhead, follow the marked and secured path through the Bala Valley up to the hunter's lodge (1300 m, water). 
The Briceljk standard splits W off the marked path at the lodge. The first 300 m gain is in the forest. After forest line, cairns indicate the way, leading N towards a now visible "gate" made of Stador to the right and of the lower south "buttress" of Briceljk to the left. Beyond the saddle, follow cairns and the trail up the scree (sometimes snow) still heading N, towards the right side of the Briceljk face. After reaching grassy slopes, turn left (W), now aiming at the notch in the SE ridge on the opposite side of the face. From the notch, turn right, heading N to the summit. The crux is the scramble up the rock and grass band above the scree (snow), not the scramble below the notch in the ridge. 

Red Tape

Here (Park rules)

Camping

List of camping places in Bovec and along the Trenta valley.

External Links

Beta
Briceljk northwest face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, beta, in Slovenian.

Latest route
Lama-Ortner 2012 climb on alpinist.com

More External Links : Weather - National Park home page - Store: maps, literature & guiding services.

Images

Strmec and Loska stenaBriceljk (Loška Stena)Briceljk SWBriceljk (2346 m)Briceljk northwest faceLoska StenaBriceljk summit
Loska stenaBriceljk (2346 m)Briceljk summit view, due NE.Pelc group, above the Bala valley.BriceljkLoska stena