OverviewBriceljk (2346 m) is the highest peak of the Loška Stena array, a group of mountains introduced on the Loška Stena page.
Routes on the NW face are the tallest of the group, and among the tallest in the Julian Alps. The drop to the village of Log pod Mangartom is 1700 m - the rock face reaching 1100 m. The most famous view of Loška Stena is the one you get while driving down from the Predel pass on the Slovenian side. Upon reaching the village of Strmec, the view of Loška Stena - and especially the view of the Briceljk northwest face is striking. Since 1930 (Cesar-Comici) and until recently, ten routes were opened on the wall - some in winter. There are also a few alternates, as well as five ice lines on the pedestal. For beta, please check the External Links section below. Note that the ancient hunter's route ("Lovska smer") is now listed under Oltarji, where some authors will list it under Briceljk.
The Bala Valley side of Briceljk - E face and S face - is much less visible than the Koritnica Valley side, even along the standard ascent. In order to get a view of the Briceljk east (SE) face, one needs to hike up the Bala valley a few hours towards the Čez Brežiče col. For a better view of the south face, one must reach the Oltarji summit.
Getting ThereBavšica trailhead (alt. 710 m)
On the road between the Predel pass (Italy/Slovenia border) and the town of Bovec (Slovenia), reach the Kluže fortress (530m). Follow the road sign for ' Bavšica ' till the end (a few kms). The Bala trail (signposted Jalovec, Zavetišče pod Špičkom) starts at the parking lot before the last houses.
Log pod Mangartom trailhead (alt. 700 m)
On the road between the Predel pass (Italy/Slovenia border) and the town of Bovec (Slovenia), reach the village of Log pod Mangartom (650 m). Enter the uppermost part of the Koritnica valley, upstream from the village of Log pod Mangartom, along a macadamized road.
(more info on the Loška Stena page)
RouteThe standard ascent (Bala Valley) is an unmarked hunter's path that appears though in most maps. It is only recommended for hikers/scramblers well experienced with such paths. Cairns above tree line. If you are not experienced in path finding, consider appointing the services of a mountain guide.
From the Bavšica trailhead, follow the marked and secured path through the Bala Valley up to the hunter's lodge (1300 m, water). The path is signposted 'Jalovec, Zavetišče pod Špičkom' at the trailhead. The Briceljk standard splits W off the marked path at the lodge. The first 300 m gain is in the forest. After forest line, cairns indicate the way, leading N towards a now visible "gate" made of Stador to the right and of the lower south "buttress" of Briceljk to the left. Beyond the saddle, follow cairns and the trail up the scree (sometimes snow) still heading N, towards the right side of the Briceljk face. After reaching grassy slopes, turn left (W), now aiming at the notch in the SE ridge on the opposite side of the face. From the notch, turn right, heading N to the summit. The crux is the scramble up the rock and grass band above the scree (snow), not the scramble below the notch in the ridge.
Red TapeTriglav National Park rules of conduct
CampingThere are many camping places in Bovec (see the camping section on the Loška Stena page), and along the Soča (Google).
Briceljk northwest face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, beta, in Slovenian.
Lama-Ortner 2012 climb on alpinist.com
Jalovec and Mangart, 1:25.000 alpine association (PZS) map.
Tabacco map, western Julian Alps 1:25.000.
Slovenian Mountain Guide Association