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Kotova Spica Gets Presented
Kotova špica is a sharp southernmost peak of the long side crest which comes from the nort from Visoka Rateška Ponca and over Vevnica. The main crest of Julian Alps, coming from Mangart on the west, turns southwards on the summit, called V Koncu špica, 2350 m. From it, towards the north branches the Vevnica and Ponce crest, while towards the south the sharp Kotova špica stands. Further towards the south the crest drops down on the broad Kotovo sedlo (saddle), 2134 m and beyond it continues towards Jalovec.
Although being so nice, Kotova špica is seldomly ascended. The reason is hard and complicated normal route from the less populated western side. Once secured route is now destroyed much by avalanches and is for non-climbers quite hard to do. But reaching the big summit mushroom is a rewarding experience and also the panorama on all sides is great. Especially nice is the sharp-edged Jalovec and its north face.
The nearby V Koncu špica, 2350 m is less important as a mountaineering goal. It can be reached by easy climbing from the saddle between it and Vevnica (UIAA I) or from the notch between it and Kotova špica (UIAA II/I).
Mangart & Jalovec subgroup with the main summits and huts.
|For the general orientation see the Julian Alps group page and the Mangart & Jalovec subgroup page!|
1. One long ascent goes from Planica valley. In this case you must reach Rateče village in the upper Sava valley and drive in Planica side valley to Tamar alpine meadow, where the trailhead starts. The upper Sava valley can be reached from the Central Slovenia (via Jesenice), from Italy (via Tarvisio) or from Austria (via Karavanke tunnel or one of passes over Karavanke ridge).
2. The second ascent on top goes from Koritnica valley. In this case you must reach Log pod Mangartom (on the road Bovec - Passo Predel) and continue by a cart-road into the end of Koritnica valley.
3. The third option is very rarely done. You could start at Laghi di Fusine (lakes, reachable from the road Tarvisio - Kranjska Gora), ascend by Via della Vita (hard ferrata) the Bivouac Tarvisio, 2160 m and do the crossing of V Koncu špica, 2350 m and the ridge to Kotova špica.
Julijske Alpe - Zahodni del. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000
Tabacco: Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano. No: 019. 1:25000 (very good!)
Mangart - Jalovec. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:25000.
|Kotova spica and its routes||1. The normal ascent from the end of Koritnica valley (called V Koncu = At the End). You can reach this point either from Planica valley over Kotovo sedlo, or through Koritnica valley. The joint point of both approaches is on the altitude of 1680 m. From there you proceed by the marked path towards Žagerica (notch), but after passing Kotova spica's west walls you deter right and ascend up on the notch between V Koncu špica and Kotova špica. Then southwards to the highest point. UIAA I-II, from Tamar cca 6 h, from Log cca 5 h.|
2. From Laghi di Fusine towards south and by Via della Vita (hard ferrata) to the saddle between Vevnica and V Koncu špica. Then crossing the summit of V Koncu špica to the notch between V Koncu špica and Kotova špica (UIAA II) and to the highest point. Cca 5 h.
3. As Bor describes, the saddle between Vevnica and V Koncu spica can be also reached over the south slopes of Vevnica. That would be the fastest approach from Planica valley. UIAA II. Cca 5 h.
4. The most natural route would be to climb the 200 m high walls above Kotovo sedlo (saddle), 2134 m. That roure was used by local hunters even before the first climbers came. So, the easiest ascent from the south starts on Kotovo sedlo, detours the nerby Špice v Planji, 2198 m, and goes then by a ledge on the main ridge. Then the route follows the main ridge until it reaches the steep walls just below the S summit of Kotova špica. There the route turns from the ridge into the West face and climbs over it on top. UIAA II, 1 h from Kotovo sedlo.
Red TapeThe mountain is in the Triglav National Parc, otherwise no limitations.
When To ClimbIn summer and autumn - the best months are July to October.
For weather see here.
Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).
Dom v Tamarju, 1108 m, (04) 5876055,
Rif. Luigi Zacchi, 1380 m, 0428.61195.
Bivouac below Kotovo sedlo, 1985 m.
Bivouac of Alpine Club Tarvisio (e-mail: email@example.com, address: Municipio di Tarvisio, via Roma 3, 33018 Tarvisio (UD), tel. 042-82037), 2160 m, always opened, 9 beds, below Žagerica notch. By Via della Vita 3 h from Rif. Zacchi, through Koritnica valley over Žagerica notch 4 h 30 min.