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Kotova spica
Mountain/Rock

Kotova spica

 
Kotova spica

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43460°N / 13.68386°E

Object Title: Kotova spica

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7795 ft / 2376 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Dec 28, 2004 / Sep 29, 2012

Object ID: 153478

Hits: 5585 

Page Score: 85.87%  - 21 Votes 

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What's New On This Page?

December 28th, 2004 - Initial setup of the page.

Overview

Kotova spicaKotova spica is a sharp southernmost peak of the long side crest which comes from nort from Visoka Rateska Ponca over Vevnica. The main crest of Julian Alps, coming from Mangart on the west turns southwards on the summit, called V Koncu spica, 2350m. From it, towards north branches the Vevnica and Ponce crest, while towards south the sharp Kotova spica stands. Further towards south the crest drops down to the broad Kotovo sedlo (saddle), 2134m and beyond it continues towards Jalovec.

Although being so nice, Kotova spica is seldomly ascended. The reason is hard and complicated normal route from the less populated western side. Once secured route is now destroyed much by avalanches and is for non-climbers quite hard to do. But reaching the big summit mushroom is a rewarding experience and also the panorama on all sides is great. Especially nice is the sharp-edged Jalovec and its north face.

The nearby V Koncu spica, 2350m is less important as a mountaineering goal. It can be reached by easy climbing from the saddle between it and Vevnica (UIAA I) or from the notch between it and Kotova spica (UIAA II).

Summit Views

Getting There


Mangart & Jalovec subgroup with the main summits and huts.

For the general orientation see the Julian Alps group page and the Mangart & Jalovec subgroup page!

One long ascent goes from Planica valley. In this case you must reach Ratece village in Sava valley and drive in Planica side valley to Tamar alpine meadow, where the trailhead starts. The upper Sava valley can be reached from the Central Slovenia (via Jesenice), from Italy (via Tarvisio) or from Austria (via Karavanke tunnel or one of passes over Karavanke ridge).

The second ascent goes from Koritnica valley. In this case you must reach Log pod Mangartom (on the road Bovec - Passo Predel) and continue by a cart-road into the end of Koritnica valley.

The third option is very rarely done. You could start at Laghi di Fusine (lakes, reachable from the road Tarvisio - Kranjska Gora), ascend by Via della Vita (hard ferrata) the Bivouac Tarvisio, 2160m and do the crossing of V Koncu spica, 2350m and the ridge to Kotova spica.

Maps:
Julijske Alpe - Zahodni del. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000
Tabacco: Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano. No: 019. 1:25000 (very good!)

Routes Overview


Kotova spica and its routes

1. The normal ascent at the end of Koritnica valley (called V Koncu = At the End). You can reach this point either from Planica valley over Kotovo sedlo, or through Koritnica valley. The joint point of both approaches is on the altitude of 1680m. From there you proceed by the marked path towards Zagerica (notch), but after passing Kotova spica's west walls you deter right and ascend up on the notch between V Koncu spica and Kotova spica. Then southwards to the highest point. UIAA I-II, from Tamar cca 6h, from Log cca 5h.

2. From Laghi di Fusine towards south and by Via della Vita (hard ferrata) to the saddle between Vevnica and V Koncu spica. Then crossing the summit of V Koncu spica to the notch between V Koncu spica and Kotova spica (UIAA II) and to the highest point. Cca 5h.

3. As Bor describes, the saddle between Vevnica and V Koncu spica can be also reached over the south slopes of Vevnica. That would be the fastest approach from Planica valley. UIAA II. Cca 5h.

4. The most natural route would be to climb the 200m high walls above Kotovo sedlo (saddle), 2134m. These routes are harder (UIAA III and more), but I have no detailed information. (Bor, help!)

Red Tape

The mountain is in the Triglav National Parc, otherwise no limitations.

When To Climb

In summer and autumn - the best months are July to October.

For weather see here.

Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).

Camping

 
Jalovec - bivak - Kotovo sedlo
Bivouac below Kotovo sedlo

The two useful huts and two bivouacs are:

Dom v Tamarju, 1108m, (04) 5876055,
Rif. Luigi Zacchi, 1380m, 0428.61195.
Bivouac below Kotovo sedlo, 1985m.
Bivouac of Alpine Club Tarvisio (e-mail: caitarvisio@inwind.it, address: Municipio di Tarvisio, via Roma 3, 33018 Tarvisio (UD), tel. 042-82037), 2160m, allways opened, 9 beds, below Zagerica notch. By Via della Vita 3h from Rif. Zacchi, through Koritnica valley over Zagerica notch 4h 30min.

Images