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Plešivec
Mountain/Rock

Plešivec

 
Plešivec

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.41025°N / 13.66050°E

Object Title: Plešivec

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7165 ft / 2184 m

 

Page By: borut

Created/Edited: Jul 19, 2014 / Oct 25, 2014

Object ID: 905470

Hits: 430 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

Plešivec (2184 m) is part of Loška Stena, an array/group of mountains introduced on the Loška Stena page.

Loška stena / Bala valley
Loška Stena SE side, in the Bala Valley. Plešivec is to the outer right.


Plešivec is the northernmost peak of Loška Stena, orographically the first summit of the array, and the lowest among the main peaks. From the summit, the view of both namesakes of the Mangart and Jalovec Group is perfect. The south side of Jalovec and the south and east sides of Mangart are close, just across the upper Koritnica Valley.

As far as summer hiking/scrambling is concerned, Plešivec is by far the easiest summit of Loška Stena. The standard ascent starts at the Čez Brežiče col, at cca 2000 m altitude, from where the gain to the summit is less than 200 m. Not only is it a short ascent (less than an hour), but there are no technical difficulties to overcome, and exposition is minimal. However, the path is unmarked and faint at times (one passage also tends to change slightly over the years, due to minor earth slides which may occur in the springtime). Another possible "problem" in late spring or early summer is snow which might still be present around the col, in which case a piolet is necessary (or both piolet and crampons).

Morning on Plešivec
Plešivec southeast face




Both the north face and the northwest face of Plešivec are in the Koritnica Valley. First climbed in the early 1980s, the north face is easily approachable and features climbs 300 to 400 m tall, graded UIAA VI- to VIII. The northwest face is divided in two: the right part, on which lines were opened, and a left part with a persisting central problem. The first ascent (and descent) of the Plešivec NW face was performed by hunters and beaters in the past centuries (UIAA IV/III, cca. 1000 m tall, exposed, "very steep grass").
(check the external links below for beta)

 
Plešivec north
Plešivec north face
 
Plešivec
Left part of the Plešivec northwest face

Getting There

Bala Valley : Bavšica Trailhead (alt. 710 m)

Koritnica Valley : Log pod Mangartom (alt. 650 m)

Route

Standard ascent - from the Čez Brežiče col : 

There are two major gendarmes to the West of the col. The path starts by descending a little on the north side and circles the obstacle at its base before reaching a grassy saddle. Soon then avoiding difficulties to the left, follow the still faint path along partially grass covered, lower angle slopes to the summit.

Čez Brežiče col
Col from N
Loska Stena from Jalovec
Plešivec N
Plešivec standard
Col from SE
Morning on Plešivec
Plešivec SE
photo 2 by Velebit


> Getting to the Čez Brežiče col.

Red Tape

Here (Park rules)

Camping

List of camping places in Bovec and along the Trenta valley.

External Links

Plešivec north face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, beta, in Slovenian (north face = severna stena).

More External Links : Weather - National Park home page - Store: maps, literature & guiding services.

Images

Upper Koritnica valleyPlešivec northPlešivecMorning on PlešivecPlešivec NorthwestPlešivec SW ridgePlešivec SE
Plešivec standard