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Plešivec
Mountain/Rock

Plešivec

 
Plešivec

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.41025°N / 13.66050°E

Object Title: Plešivec

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7165 ft / 2184 m

 

Page By: borut

Created/Edited: Jul 19, 2014 / Oct 6, 2014

Object ID: 905470

Hits: 296 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

Plešivec (2184 m) is part of Loška Stena, an array/group of mountains introduced on the Loška Stena page.

Loška stena / Bala valley
Loška Stena SE side, in the Bala Valley. Plešivec is to the outer right.


Plešivec is the northernmost peak of Loška Stena, orographically the first summit of the array, and the lowest among the main peaks. From the summit, the view of both namesakes of the Mangart and Jalovec Group is perfect. The south side of Jalovec and the south and east sides of Mangart are close, just across the upper Koritnica Valley.

As far as summer hiking/scrambling is concerned, Plešivec is by far the easiest summit of Loška Stena. The standard ascent starts at the Čez Brežiče col, at cca 2000 m altitude, from where the gain to the summit is less than 200 m. Not only is it a short ascent (less than an hour), but there are no technical difficulties to overcome, and exposition is minimal. However, the path is unmarked and faint at times (one passage also tends to change slightly over the years, due to minor earth slides which may occur in the springtime). Another possible "problem" in late spring or early summer is snow which might still be present around the col, in which case a piolet is necessary (or both piolet and crampons).

Morning on Plešivec
Plešivec southeast face




Both the north face and the northwest face of Plešivec are in the Koritnica Valley. First climbed in the early 1980s, the north face is easily approachable and features climbs 300 to 400 m tall, graded UIAA VI- to VIII. The northwest face is divided in two: the right part, on which lines were opened, and a left part with a persisting central problem. The first ascent (and descent) of the Plešivec NW face was performed by hunters and beaters in the past centuries (UIAA IV/III, cca. 1000 m tall, exposed, "very steep grass").
(check the external links below for beta)

 
Plešivec north
Plešivec north face
 
Plešivec
Left part of the Plešivec northwest face

Getting There

Bavšica trailhead (alt. 710 m)
On the road between the Predel pass (Italy/Slovenia border) and the town of Bovec (Slovenia), reach the Kluže fortress (530m). Follow the road sign for ' Bavšica ' till the end (a few kms). The Bala trail (signposted Jalovec, Zavetišče pod Špičkom) starts at the parking lot before the last houses.

Log pod Mangartom trailhead (alt. 700 m)
On the road between the Predel pass (Italy/Slovenia border) and the town of Bovec (Slovenia), reach the village of Log pod Mangartom (650 m). Enter the uppermost part of the Koritnica valley, upstream from the village of Log pod Mangartom, along a macadamized road.

(more info on the Loška Stena page)

Routes

Standard ascent, from the Čez Brežiče col:
There are two major gendarmes to the West of the col. The path starts by descending a little on the north side and circles the obstacle at its base before reaching a grassy saddle. Soon then avoiding difficulties to the left, follow the still faint path along partially grass covered, lower angle slopes to the summit.

Čez Brežiče col
Col from N
Loska Stena from Jalovec
Plešivec N
Plešivec standard
Col from SE
Morning on Plešivec
Plešivec SE
photo 2 by Velebit

- Čez Brežiče -
There are three options for reaching the col Čez Brežiče (1980 m) along marked and secured mountain-hiking paths:
* through the Koritnica valley, starting from the Log pod Mangartom trailhead. This option includes an interesting via ferrata type section (and possibly a snow flank just below the col in the early season). This route spirals around Plešivec, taking in views of all its faces.
* through the Bala valley, starting from the Bavšica trailhead. This ascent to the col is longer but easier.
* along a "very demanding marked and secured mountain-hiking path" (also with cables) coming from the 'Zavetišče pod Špičkom' mountain hut, a hut often visited on the way from the Trenta Valley to Jalovec.

See a map (link) of mountain-hiking paths on Loška Stena area page 'Getting There' section.

Red Tape

Triglav National Park rules of conduct

Camping

There are many camping places in Bovec (see the camping section on the Loška Stena page), and along the Soča (Google).

External Links

Plešivec north face on primorskestene.com, alpine climbing, beta, in Slovenian (north face = severna stena).

Maps
Jalovec and Mangart, 1:25.000 PZS alpine association map.
Sidarta maps
Western Julian Alps, 1:25.000 Tabacco map.

Weather forecast for Slovenia

Images

Upper Koritnica valleyPlešivec northPlešivecMorning on PlešivecPlešivec NorthwestPlešivec SW ridgePlešivec SE
Plešivec standard