Travnik : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

What's New On This Page?

November 3rd, 2004 - Links to some pictures and neighbouring mountains inserted.

October 31st, 2004 - Initial setup of the page.

Overview

Travnik is the central figure in the long wall from Mojstrovke towards Jalovec. This is one of the finest climbing areas of Julian Alps. Starting with vertical drops of Mala (Small) and Velika (Big) Mojstrovka, continuing over Travnik and finishing with the hardest section of Site, this 4000m long and almost 1000m high wall for decades attracts the best climbers from all around Europe. Although the ridge from Mojstrovke to Sleme does not vary much in altitude, when walking into Planica valley you immediately recognize Travnik by its huge triangular NW face.

Looking on the southern side we understand the name (travnik=meadow). High grassy slopes, intermitted by rocks are rising above Zadnja Trenta valley. All these slopes under Travnik and Mojstrovke are named Dnina. If someone would scramble over these south-east slopes to the top he would be surprised, reaching the summit. Here warm, grassy slopes, on the other side suddenly a cold, vertical drop.

--> From Jalovec (left) to Travnik (right) goes a long ridge. Mangart (right of Jalovec) is far behind.

Although the main visitors are certainly climbers, in the last years, as mountaineering has developed so much, many ordinary mountaineers also reach the summit of Travnik. There's no path on it, only a few old, washed out marks can help you to cross the SE slopes of the massif, but crossing the whole ridge from Mala Mojstrovka to Travnik and returning back over the SE slopes is so rewarding, that more and more mountaineers do this tour. And finally, I didn't do it, and it is not described as such, but I'm quite positive that from the summit of Travnik also a ski tour can be done. Why just everyone does only the ski tour from Mojstrovka?

Summit Views

What's especially rewarding is also the panorama from Travnik's summit. Jalovec is so close, Mangart a bit more remote, but also on the other side, towards east, many Julian Alps giants are standing, beautifully arranged in equal distances. In this parade the first one is Spik, then Skrlatica, Prisojnik, Razor, Triglav, Kanjavec and Krn. And not to speak about the more remote ones.

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Getting There

Mangart & Jalovec subgroup with the main summits and huts.

For the general orientation see the Julian Alps group page and the Mangart & Jalovec subgroup page!

For the east ascent you must reach Vrsic Pass, 1611m - on the road from Kranjska Gora through the Trenta valley to Bovec.
For climbing in its north wall you must reach Dom v Tamarju (hut), 1108m, at the end of Planica valley.
Would be possible, but almost nobody is ascending Travnik from Zadnja Trenta valley. There is Koca pri izviru Soce (hut), 886m.

Maps:
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000

--> The view from Ratece into Planica valley. High above it is the wall Mojstrovka-Travnik.

Routes Overview

Ponce ridge and some of main routes.

Normal (not hard climbing) routes.

1. From Vrsic pass over the SE slopes. From Vrsic, 1611 you ascend by the normal path towards Mojstrovka. From the S ridge descend to a shallow basin and continue towards SW. Then by the S ridge on the summit. 3h. Travnik south slopes can be also accessed from SW, from the small hut, named Zavetisce pod Spickom, 2064m.
2. From Vrsic pass on Velika Mojstrovka and by the main ridge. As described on Mojstrovka page you reach velika Mojstrovka and then in easy climbing (UIAA I) follow the whole main ridge to the summit. 4-5h. Very recommendable!

[img:315558:alignleft:small:Albi - In Aschenbrenner route]
Climbing routes over the N wall

In the alpine history of Julian Alps a major role played the most famous of all Travnik routes, first climbed by the famous P. Aschenbrenner & Tiefenbrunner. Below are some of the most popular routes.00

Aschenbrenner route (with variants), VI+/V-VI, 800m. P. Aschenbrenner & Tiefenbrunner, 1934.

Crni biser (Black Pearl), VII, 800m. F. Knez & L. Cajzek, 1980. Link.

Algebra. S. Karo & F. Knez, 1985.

Tschad route, III, IV.

The ravine between Travnik and Site, Combined ice-rock: IV, 4, 80 deg./60 deg., 600m.

Travniska grapa (Travnik Ravine), Combined ice-rock: V, 90deg., M+, 800m.

Red Tape

The mountain is in the Triglav National Parc, otherwise no limitations.

When To Climb

In summer and autumn - the best months are July to October.

For weather see here.

Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).