Coyote Ugly

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.9

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

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Page By: rhyang

Created/Edited: Dec 28, 2010 / Dec 28, 2010

Object ID: 687924

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Table of Contents

Overview

This route is one of the longer Pinnacles classics, near the scenic Bear Gulch Reservoir on a formation called Tiburcio's X. The guidebook rates it three stars.

Getting There

Start from the east side of the Monument. Park in the Bear Gulch lot, and start hiking from the Moses Spring trailhead. Take the first left, go up the Moses Spring trail and then through a tunnel. Turn right at the next junction, and then left. Do not take the trail towards the Bear Gulch Caves.

Pass the east face of The Monolith. Soon you will be at the Bear Gulch Reservoir dam. Tiburcio's X is the prominent tower to the right, with an "X" formed by diagonal cracks on its southeast face. Turn right and head up the Rim trail to the base of the route.

Route Description

Route height is 150'. Start just right of the center of the "X", and follow two bolts to the X.

(watch out for loose stuff lower on the route. Things get much more solid above the "X")

Place a piece in the crack here, and then head up and right past four more bolts.

Above the fourth bolt you will see a fifth. You may be tempted to climb up and clip it, but unless you want to do the 5.10c direct finish, traverse right to the arete onto easier ground and head up to the summit to a two-bolt anchor (plus an ancient-looking third bolt).

Descend by rappelling or downclimbing (fourth class) off the back side towards a pine tree. The fourth class route also has a single bolt, and is the easiest way to the top of Tiburcio's X for setting up topropes (remember that the route is 150' high).