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Regular Route (Dragonfly Dome)
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Regular Route (Dragonfly Dome)

 
Regular Route (Dragonfly Dome)

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Regular Route (Dragonfly Dome)

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: rhyang

Created/Edited: Jan 12, 2011 / Jan 12, 2011

Object ID: 691354

Hits: 2606 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview

Dragonfly Dome is in the High Peaks area, a stout hike in from the east side. The guidebook rates the Regular Route as three stars, a Pinnacles classic.

Getting There

Park across from the ranger station on the east side, and start hiking from the Condor Gulch trailhead. Gain a bunch of elevation, and pass the overlook. After 1.7 miles turn left at the junction with the Chalone Creek trail. In about a quarter mile you should see Dragonfly Dome just right of the trail.



There may be a bit of brush, hopefully trimmed back. Elevation gain is ~1000-1500'.

Route Description

Route height is 60'. Start on a pillar with a thin crack and climb the south face along a seam which goes up and left, passing two bolts and a couple of pockets / holes.





At the top there will be a bolted anchor, with rappel rings. Look down and take in the views of the west side -- the Balconies and the backside of Machete Ridge.



You can also toprope School Daze (5.9) from here. Descend by rappel.

Essential Gear

The thin crack reputedly takes small to medium nuts / cams, but I found protecting it a bit superfluous. I placed a brown or blue (1.5 / 2.0) tricam in one of the pockets above that. Bring a couple quickdraws for the well-camouflaged (but solid) bolts too.

Guidebooks

This route and others in the High Peaks are listed in A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, Brad Young, 2007.

History

FA Steve Roper, Joe McKeown, 3/1960.

External Links

The guidebook author can sometimes be found on the Masters of Mud forum.

Images

Dragonfly DomeMe leadingRegular RouteView from the top