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The Flumes, NE Face
Route

The Flumes, NE Face

 
The Flumes, NE Face

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: The Flumes, NE Face

Route Type: Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.6 to 5.10a

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: rhyang

Created/Edited: May 17, 2010 / Dec 13, 2010

Object ID: 622051

Hits: 3943 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

The northeast face of the Flumes formation has a number of bolted routes on mostly pretty good rock. We sampled the following :
  • Bits n Pieces (5.9) - two stars
  • Kibbles and Bits (5.9) - one star
  • Rebecca's Sailing (5.9) - two stars, can be combined with Kibbles and Bits for a two-pitch route
  • Jumangi (5.10a) - one star
  • Nipples and Knobs (5.10a) - two stars
  • Cool Daze (5.8) - two stars : steep and sustained, like the guidebook says :)

Other routes listed for this formation include :
  • Wet Paranoia (5.9 TR) - one star
  • Tilting Terrace (5.8) - one star, fun (but short) first pitch, haven't done the second
  • Adam's Apple (5.9) - one star
  • Hunting Spiders (5.7)
  • Lichen to Lead (5.6R)

Getting There

Follow the approach instructions to Dos Equis and the Destiny Wall, but instead of turning right and going up the hill, cross the footbridge over the creek (sixth bridge in the guidebook).

Just after the bridge, continue on the Balconies Cliff Trail (do not turn right towards the Balconies Caves Trail and Chockstone Dome). Continue uphill on this trail past the second switchback.

A climber access sign will direct you to the left, marked "Tilting Terrace" (which is one of the routes on this formation). A short climber's trail should direct you to the crag.

Selected Route Descriptions

Bits n Pieces (5.9) -- leftmost bolted line on the formation, 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Note: in the guidebook this is actually called Bits n Pieces - Extension



Kibbles and Bits (5.9) -- starts to the right of Bits n Pieces, near a small bushy tree, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Rebecca's Sailing (5.9) -- starts from the anchor for Kibbles and Bits, 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Makes for a nice two-pitch route. A little strenuous at the final overhang, but the book says you can do a 5.4 traverse right to avoid i, ending on another set of anchors a bit above the others.

Jumangi (5.10a) -- starts to the right of Kibbles and Bits, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A little stiff and a committing start.



Nipples and Knobs (5.10a) -- starts to the right of Jumangi, 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is shared by Tilting Terrace, but you go right instead of left.

Cool Daze (5.8) -- starts from first belay of Tilting Terrace (5.8), traverse across a small gully, then head straight up.



Descend all routes by rappel.

Essential Gear

8 quickdraws, 60m rope

Guidebook

These routes are described in A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, Brad Young, 2007.

Closures

This area may be closed for raptor nesting, usually in January - July. Check the latest status on the NPS website or the Friends of Pinnacles website.

External links

The Flumes Formation on rockclimbing.com

Images

Jumangi (5.10a)Bits n Pieces (5.9)Kibbles and Bits (5.9)Tilting TerraceTilting Terrace, 5.8Cool Daze (5.8)