Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.8 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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1 |
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Grade:
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I |
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Overview
This route is one of the classics on the Discovery Wall, a must-do on excellent rock.Getting There
Approach the Discovery Wall from the east side of the Monument. Park in the Bear Gulch lot, and hike from the Moses Spring trailhead. Do not take the Moses Spring trail at the first junction -- instead continue right and up several switchbacks and pass the Tourist Trap signs. Turn left at the first climber access trail signpost (carabiner symbol), which will take you along the north end of the Discovery Wall.Route Description
Climb up a left-facing corner to a cave with an overhang, clipping a bolt on the way.
There is a bolt in the cave, and a piton in the crack above. The crack could also take small gear.
Traverse left out of the cave onto some thin face climbing - this is the crux of the climb.
Head up the corner on the face, passing the two bolt belay for Holiday Ordeal (5.10a) about halfway up.
Near the top clip another bolt and face climb 5.6-ish knobs, finishing at a two-bolt anchor.
Descent is usually via walkoff - take the climber's descent trail back to the Rim trail, and continue back to the base of the wall.
Essential Gear
Quickdraws, long slings as needed, cams to 3", perhaps a set of nuts.50 or 60m rope - the route is less than 100' high. Guides apparently set up topropes on the route using long slings at the anchor and a 60m rope.
Approach shoes for the walk off descent.
Guidebooks
This route and others on the Discovery Wall are listed in the following guidebooks -A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, Brad Young, 2007.
California Road Trip - Northern California, Tom Slater, 2009.