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Adventures on a Welsh North
Face Adventures on a Welsh North Face  by igneouscarl

My own story begins in Guilford, a county town four miles over the hill from Godalming- notable as the residence and teaching post of twenty four year old George Leigh Mallory. Under far less illustrious circumstances you’ll find me stood in an outdoor shop: bored stiff, crammed between a rail of waterproof jackets and polar tech fleeces. There I am encircled by a descending wall of cold air blasted by the incessant air conditioning unit above. The noise is tolerable, even if it didn’t come close to drowning out the everyday-same song on the sound system. That same band syndrome that even after two months was close to driving me cracked. I’d had no customers in all morning (but that was alright too really) and while the sun shone outside I skimmed my way through the inspiring Rock Climbing in Snowdonia.

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Two Eastern Summitposters
Meet Two Eastern Summitposters Meet  by TLP

Hey man I was thinking of going to Mt. Carrigain, do you want to go too? That's basically how Puma concolor invited me along on a hike, and how I came to meet a fellow Eastern Summitpost member. I think this trip report will show why Summitpost is a great site. It allowed us, two peakbaggers, who wouldn't have known each other otherwise, to meet for the first time, and go climb a mountain in NH.

I think over time Puma and myself got to know each other through the Eastern discussion board here on Summitpost, and maybe through some probably idiotic discussions in the pratte and prattle forum. I think I started asking him questions about State highpoints, which we are both after, and I always got a quick, friendly response from him. I noticed he had already completed 3 Northeast peakbagging lists I am pursuing: the ADK 46, the NH 48, and the Catskill 3500, as well as the Northeast 115. So I would often badger him about that stuff, and I always got a nice response from him.

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On the Edge
of Oblivion a.k.a On the Edge of Oblivion a.k.a "The Ledges of Death"  by Scott

This is the story of our grand trip through the Utah and Arizona Canyons that took place between April 11 and 20. The trip began with an email to Todd Martin, a well know Arizona canyoneer/climber. Todd runs the website Todds Desert Hiking Guide and is also the author of the book Arizona: Technical Canyoneering. I had been completely luckless trying to put a group together for a Buckfarm canyon and Saddle Canyon attempt for quite a while, in fact for several years. With the remoteness, ruggedness, climbing required, time and commitment it was hard to find anyone interested in such a trip. I was in luck because Todd had recently attempted Buckfarm Canyon twice and also wanted to complete the descent and climb out. A few others were interested, but it was Rich Rudow and Aaron Locander (who was also on one of the previous Buckfarm Canyon attempts) that committed to join us for this fantastic proposed trip. Plans were made and anticipation and enthusiasm was high.

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St. Peters Dome St. Peters Dome  by rpc

St. Peters Dome is a large basalt pinnacle on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge. On the shorter uphill side, it is 350 feet of severely exfoliating and decomposing basalt between the saddle and the summit. The Dome is located 35 miles from downtown Portland and is plainly visible to all who drive by on Interstate 84. The approach hike though tedious is short and mostly straightforward. Despite these facts, the Dome is known to have been climbed by only 20 different parties prior to our ascent. (Ref. Mazama Annual 2007; other parties may have reached the summit but chose not to leave any record). The first ascent was done by Everett Darr et al in 1940 (Ref. Mazama Annual 1940) and the bulk of the subsequent ascents occurred during the early 50s to early 70s with no recorded ascents in the 1980s. The 90s saw a resurgence in Dome’s popularity with Wayne’s (Wallace) first solo ascent (!!) of the Dome – #20 and the last known ascent prior to ours. The Dome has at least 3 routes established on its south face and one line on the east/northeast face - all require thin expando nailing of disintegrating basalt "cobblestones".

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Tagging along on the '08 WMC
Triple Traverse Tagging along on the '08 WMC Triple Traverse  by seanpeckham

The Wasatch Mountain Club's annual Triple Traverse, led by Walt Haas, was again a great success this year, with 9 people starting out and 8 making it to the west twin and down Broads Fork. Many thanks to Walt for leading it, to all those who broke trail, especially Lubos, and to everyone for being a great group to climb with.

The Triple Traverse, as is often said, is considered one of the finest snow climbs in the Wasatch: with typically a pre-dawn start, the route ascends 3,400 vertical feet up Tanners Gulch, a moderate-sloped south-facing gully that frequently plasters the Little Cottonwood Canyon road with avalanche debris and is a classic climb or ski descent in its own right, then climbs Dromedary Peak, from there following a knife-edge ridge over Sunrise Peak, continuing on to Broads Fork Twin Peaks, and exits down Broads Fork, for a total ascent of approximately 6000 vertical feet.

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Suicidal
Jackrabbits Suicidal Jackrabbits  by caverpilot

The wind was relentless and cold. I had to find shelter behind some rocks before I got chilled - this was only two weeks into the spring, so winter was not far behind. I planned my summit photos before I took them, so I could bring something back besides hypothermia. No, this is not an Alaskan or Nepalese endeavor, this was the great state of Texas. Texas?? They have mountains there?

After work on Friday, March 30th, in Eagle Pass, Texas (Where Yee-Haw meets Ole'), I decided on a moment's notice that I would drive up and knock out my 32nd highpoint, in the great state of Texas. Having lived in Montana for the last several years, I was expecting a long drive, however, when you are in the 2nd largest state, the drive to anywhere seems to take forever!

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Scrambling with an 11 Year
Old Scrambling with an 11 Year Old  by Stu Brandel

I have learned with my 3rd child that it is scrambling, not hiking, that makes an outdoor adventure. While I have long enjoyed long hikes that cover lots of terrain, I have found that this does not always transfer well to children. My twins endured some long hikes and are comfortable but remain somewhat indifferent to the outdoors. I resolved to try harder with my remaining 11 year old son. A chance discovery last summer in Yellowstone gave me, finally, the key.

Wanting to drive north into some new territory, I found a hike called Bearclaw Falls in a guidebook. Roping Evan into the car, we arrived at the hike 90 minutes later. It proved to be very short but very long on bouldery scrambling up and down to the falls, with a lot of upstream and downstream possibilities. Evan loved it. Really loved it. My engineer's mind calculated: Enthusiasm decreases with distance, but seems to increase with the square of vertical distance - but only if scrambling is involved. Evan would tolerate may hikes that vacation, including a 14+ mile affair to the summit of Static Peak, but only one was brought up as the comparison to any future hike: Is it like Bearclaw Falls?

It is not hard to understand why. Scrambling is mentally and physically fun and challendging, not the endless trudge (to a kid) the best of hikes can turn out to be. Problem solving, physical exertion and challenge occur in buches. Instant gratification repeated.

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Perseverance - Little Bear
Peak Perseverance - Little Bear Peak  by HokieJim

Where is Little Bear Peak? At the crossroads of Hwy 160 and my comfort zone. I remember reading through Gerry Roach's guidebook to the Colorado 14ers my first summer out here, back when I had no intention of trying to summit them all. It was an easy decision then to leave Little Bear off the to-do list. Karen was the same way, "it's class 4, so I'm not going to do it." But time, experience, and the desire to finish off the list have a way overturning decisions like that.

We had been to the Blanca massif two years ago on separate trips and experienced the dangers of rockfall in those mountains on successful summit attempts of Blanca and Ellingwood Pt. We had heard rocks tumbling down the mountains at night from our tent and read accounts of accidents in Little Bear's Hourglass couloir that occured because of that rotten rock. How can we avoid that? Well, there are no rocks to fall on you when they are buried under snow. Okay, so it's really a risk trade-off: rockfall vs avalanche. But at least we can mitigate the avalanche threat with some training and good decision making.

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WE on ZE WE on ZE  by rpc

We’ve been wanting to climb Zenyatta Entrada (IV 5.4 C3) for a few years but nerves, weather, opportunity never came together at the right instant of time and space until last weekend. Taking advantage of Southwest’s airfare slashes (a poor aircraft inspection record becoming public might have induced this – I dunno?), we flew down to Salt Lake last Friday night. Due to late arrival in town and our laziness, we got to the base of the line after 10am following the arduous 90 second approach. The weather was sunny but there were strong gusts of wind. At this point we were pretty sure we’d be fixing the first couple pitches and returning for more on Sunday.

The first two pitches offer lower angle climbing and positive nutting and so they went relatively quickly (mostly C1 I’d guess). Third pitch is where things got steeper, thinner and less positive (small nuts, largish RP’s mostly). The going was fairly secure until I came to within 10 feet of the intermediate belay anchor. Well in sight of the bolts and chains, I would spend the next hour trying to put together a house of cards to get my fat ass up this final short stretch. With a long string of questionable gear below me, I did a fare share of praying as my attempts at hooking the section resulted in small flakes blowing off. Similar results were obtained when trying to nut a sandy looking groove which would be nearly out of reach had I not been able to string three nuts together to extend my range. All for nothing. A half engaged #2 Camalot in a blown out pin nest combined with some well-timed updraft (you know, levitation…) and I finally clipped the anchor. Thoughts of finishing up to top of P3 proper were nixed and so we fixed the ropes and came down trying to secure the lines from abrasion the best we could. Did I mention the windy conditions?

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Prayer at
sunrise: Maja Jezerce in winter Prayer at sunrise: Maja Jezerce in winter  by kamil

My mobile’s ringing, distracting me from choosing an ice axe in the mountain shop. Just a while ago I became a proud owner of a pair of crampons. Bad news from the garage, my car’s unfit for a long drive, at least it’s not gonna be ready for tomorrow.

I heard about this trip some time ago from my Belgrade friend Vlado (vvujisic) but only a few days ago I knew I could make it. I was closely following the news about the unrest in Kosovo and Belgrade. To add to the already interesting picture, a week ago there were some brief reports about a mysterious accident of an unidentified helicopter that crashed in the fog on the slopes of Maja Jezerce. The SOS signal was received in Italy and Albania shortly before the object disappeared from radars, and the local villagers heard the explosion. Neither KFOR in Kosovo nor the Albanian army reported any missing machines. It was weird that nobody knew anything when it was on the radars. The area was searched on the ground and from the air, although the search was severely hampered by bad weather. The action was called off after 2 days. The reports in international media were scarce and the information about the end of the rescue action was difficult to find outside the Albanian web portals. Since then the media kept stumm. Something smelt fishy here.

Two days before the planned departure from Utrecht I got an email from Dragan, the guide from the mountaineering club in Belgrade who organised the trip. The planned ascent was brought one day forward due to the weather forecast. So I would have just one day in Łódź to rest and sort things out, straight after an overnight drive from Holland. I already knew that neither Vlado nor any of my Polish friends would not go.

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