The popular climbs are:
- Wirklich Oben Bist Du Nie (UIAA VI+) - A stellar climb with a continuous grade through it's length.
- Paradies (UIAA VI+) - Another multipitch climb with quality throughout.
- Kuschelrock (UIAA VIII)
- Morgenstund (UIAA V+) - an easier climb, but highly rated.
Getting ThereGet to the Austrian town of Nesselwängle. The nearest bigger town is Reutte, easily reached from the famous German town of Füssen (where the Neuschwanstein castle is). In Nesselwängle, turn uphill at the church to reach the parking lot of the utility lift up to the Gimpelhaus. You have to pay a fee to park here, have a few euro coins handy.
Hike up the road-turning-to-trail to the Gimpelhaus, which takes between 45 minutes and an hour and a half, depending on how laden down with gear you are. At the Gimpelhaus, follow trail right and up into the cirque behind the prominent Rote Flüh and Hochwiesler which dominate the view from there. After about 30 minutes of walking, you'll be at the base of the Gimpelvorbau.
Easy way up/descent
From the base of the rock, you should keep walking westwards along trail until meeting the Normal Route for the Gimpel. Ascend the loose, scrambly path to the ridge between the Gimpel and the Gimpelvorbau. Then, follow grassy slopes for a few minutes walk to the summit of the Gimpelvorbau. It's not really a destination to climb this way...far better to do a technical route on the South Face!
You can descend this way, though if there is fresh snow, it can be awkward. Usually, climbers descend by rappelling their route, or using one of several prepared rappel routes on the South Face.
AccomodationYou can stay in the Gimpelhaus, which is so big it even has a bouldering room, or the Tannheimerhütte, much cozier, 15 minutes additional walk along the mountainside. This saves you the hour hike up from town if you want to do routes for several days.
The climbs on the Gimpelvorbau are about 30 minutes walk from those huts.
- Toni Freudig's page - a forum and other interesting information about the little Tannheimer mountain group. Here is a link to various guidebooks about the location.
- The Panico Guidebook - with it's usual high quality, a guide to rock climbing in the Allgäu range, including these Tannheimer routes.