Hang Over

Overview

Hang Over is a longer, aesthetic line directly above the Lower Greensleeve route. The climb is two tiers, totalling 40m (130') long, but is commonly toproped with anchors over the first tier. From Hang Over there are great views of the Black Magic and Unnamed walls

Approach

Begin at the Grotto Falls parking lot and take the path north-east of the lot to the Genesis area. The trail should be well-packed and easy to find. Once you reach Genesis I, take a left and follow the cliffband to Lower Green Sleeves. You can either climb Lower Green Sleeves and continue straight up, angling slightly left, or you can continue past Lower Green Sleeve. If you continue past it, a gully will open up on the right in roughly 100'. Hike up about 500 vertical feet from the top of Greensleeve and you will see the climb open up.

Route Description

Hang Over: 130' WI3+

The climb has two distinct tiers separated by easy ice and snow. Begin by climbing up any of the ice at the base, ranging from WI3 to WI4 in difficulty. Once on top of the first tier, which is 30m tall, you will find two anchors used for toproping, one on the left and one on the right. To finish the climb, follow the snow up 10m to the final crux section. The ice will be yellow on the left and blue on the right. The easiest path is on the blue ice at WI3+, however the yellow ice offers exiting climbing up to WI4+ and can be chandeliered. Don't climb up to the left too far, though, as the anchor is slings around a tree just at the top of the ice on the right.

Essential Gear

Screws to your comfort level, typically around 6

Images

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