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Sleeping Giant Falls
Route

Sleeping Giant Falls

 
Sleeping Giant Falls

Page Type: Route

Location: Montana, United States, North America

Object Title: Sleeping Giant Falls

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: WI4 II

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: jmines713

Created/Edited: Feb 10, 2010 / Feb 18, 2010

Object ID: 595979

Hits: 2698 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Overview

Sleeping Giant Falls is a seldom visited piece of ice in the north of the popular Genesis area. It is a long approach for a short pitch, but well worth the hike.

Approach

 
Ice Below Sleeping Giant
Ice on the Approach

To approach Sleeping Giant Falls, park at the Grotto Fall trailhead. Head back down the road for 1/4 mile until you are directly below Upper Greensleeves, then turn right (west) and head uphill. If it hasn't snowed recently, a faint trail is usually found. Follow the trail up a short distance until it intersects with the old logging road, and follow this road to the left (north) a short distance, then turn uphill to the gully the falls is located. The gully you are looking for is the first major gully north of the Upper Greensleeves route. Hike up the trail, usually on the creekbed, for nearly 1 000 vertical feet to the falls. Once you are close, the gully will veer left at the piece of ice shown here - go up to the left, then traverse right to get above the ice or climb it at WI3-. The climb will be obvious at the top of this gully.

Route Description

Sleeping Giant Falls: 100' WI4
FA: Unknown
The falls is most easily done on the left at WI4, though usually the right side has overhanging icicles that can provide an enjoyable WI5 climb. Because of the orientation of the climb, it will look much easier than it is - on the approach it looks WI3, but once on the climb you will find it is vertical for the lower half. Once above the main bulge, it is an enjoyable 10m of WI3-. At the top, look up to the right for the tree anchor with lots of slings and cord running thru it. Though it looks too far to the right, the anchor works well for toproping with a 60m rope.

Essential Gear

Ice screws to your comfort level, typically around 6

Images

Ice Below Sleeping GiantSleeping Giant FallsLeading Sleeping Giant