Mount Scott, 5.4-5.11d

Overview/Approach

Mount Scott is the least aesthetic climbing destination in the Wichita Wilderness Wildlife Refuge.  It is the highest point in the local range but still barely qualifies as a mountain at 2464’.  Mount Scott is popular with driving and hiking tourists making for a weird access issue.  At certain times of the week and/or day, you can drive up the paved road to the summit. Other times, you can only hike.  On some days, if you hike up in the morning to climb, by the time you descend the road, you could actually get a ticket because there is no shoulder to speak of and the local patrol does not want hikers and drivers on the road together.  It is a weird arrangement to say the least.

The climbing destinations are broken down into two main areas, Lower and Upper Walls.  The lower wall offers taller routes in a more remote setting whilst the upper wall offers more than twice as many routes with less of an approach.  The lower wall features two moderate classics at the refuge, Mr. Clean, 5.8+**** and High Anxiety, 5.7****.  Both of these routes are taller and more interesting than any moderates on the upper wall.   However, the upper wall offers many more routes with more variety.  The quickest way to get to the base of the lower wall is to rap in from atop High Anxiety (fixed chains).  The east end of the upper wall is just a short walk from the parking lot atop Mount Scott.  The lower wall is mostly east facing.  The “upper wall” is made up of a collection of short walls that are northeast facing.

Drive to a gated entrance at the base of the south end of Mount Scott.  I am not going to post the convoluted policy on when the gate is open or not because I am sure it changes depending on the season or year.  From the gate, hike or drive approximately 1.4 miles up the road to a guardrail pullout on your right.  Locate a climber’s trail at the south end of this guardrail and follow it down to the top of the wall.  Locate a fixed rap atop the wall that a 60m rope gets you down no worries.  You are rapping over High Anxiety.  Mr. Clean is climber’s left, Repeat After Me is climber’s right.  Expect a million spiders on the routes in late September, early October.  To reach the upper wall, drive or hike to the first parking area on the right at the top of the mountain.  Hike back down the road along a guardrail and step over it when you locate a climber’s trail heading down the hill.  After about 10 minutes total from your car, you will reach the first obvious moderate, Foolish Behavior, 5.9+****, which starts with a hand crack.

Mount Scott, Lower Wall Route Descriptions Listed South to North

Pablo- 5.10*/

Blank Check- 5.11c**/

Layaway Plan- 5.11-****/

Teacup Arete- 60’-5.10c***/ A contrived single bolted variation finish of the natural hand crack to OW that is “Crack Finish” aka Teacup Crack. Make the exposed traverse left to a single clip and dyno from there for a hold.  Dow

Crack Finish- 60’-5.8+**/ The natural extension of the hand crack used for both this route and Teacup.  Continue straight up from the hand crack into a relatively clean OW.  Maybe one knee jam and one chicken wing, nothing strenuous or sustained.  Single to #3 + a #6.  Build a gear anchor on top.  Dow

Mr. Clean- 65’-5.8+****/ The guide references this pure corner climb as “one of the best climbs in the refuge” at the grade and it is.  Plug and go up to #3, the positive roof layback is considered the crux.  Very good pure crack route for the refuge.  Home to a million spiders in September.  Single to #3.  Medium gear belay on top.  Dow

Stole Your Face- 5.11b**/

Birthday Boy- 5.6**/

High Anxiety- 60’-5.7****/ An excellent big hold steep face lead at the grade with good protection in intermediate cracks.  This is also the rap in route with a fixed rap at top.  Climb to the left of the arete, meeting it for a second and then meander back up left via the easiest line.  Single to #2.  Dow

Final Exit- 5.11**/

Repeat After Me- 60’-5.10c****/ Obvious bolted triple roof route to the north of High Anxiety.  A sustained pitch at the grade (this route would be 5.11 at many climbing locales). I felt the first roof was the crux.  There is a solid medium piece that protects before clipping the first bolt.  The 2^nd roof felt every bit as physical.  The third roof was easier.  The final bolt seemed obvious to me although several who have climbed it before seem to report missing it.  Sling a boulder on top for a belay.  Five clips, single #.5 to #1.  Dow

Full Cavity Search- 5.7*/

Mount Scott, Upper Wall Route Descriptions Listed East to West

Atomic Knee Drop- 5.6**/

Pile Driver- 5.6**/

Spinning Back Kick- 50’-5.4*/ I downclimbed this route after cleaning up the gear anchors on the climbs to the right.   Good climb for the budding trad leader to learn on.  Dow

Down for the Count- 5.6**/

Sleeper- 5.6**/

Arm Bar- 5.6**/

Foolish- 50’-5.8**/ A worthy route to pair with Foolish Behavior.  Left Facing corner just to the left of Behavior.  A good crack up to a closed section.  Easy face connects back left to the crack again.  Medium gear belay at the top of the route.  Single to #2. Dow

Foolish Behavior- 50’-5.9+****/ If this is a four-star route as the guide suggests (“Mount Scott Classic”), that would not suggest Wichita has much to offer.  A hand crack for about 25’, then awkward face moves left and up through a bolt.  Continue easier ground through the next bolt.  The slab finish angling up and right is the crux of the climb and sandbagged at 5.9.  Medium gear belay in boulders above the route.  Single from #.5-#2.  Dow

Toprope Route- 5.11R****/ (now bolted)

Frankly Scarlet- 50’-5.9***/ A weirdly protected route.  Two bolts were installed on the left side of the arete and the first clip is after the technical face crux of the route.  You can get a small brassie in to protect the crux move up to the first bolt.  The route is mellow from there to the top with good protection not necessitating the second bolt.  Small gear and wires.  Sling a large boulder for the belay.  Dow

Groove Rat- 5.10d*/

Yee Haw- 5.6**/

Hern, Frank Thing- 5.10dRX**/

Mr. Green Things- 5.8**/

Two Trojans- 5.8RX*/

Roof Crack- 50’-5.9+***/ Bushwhack to the base of this obvious roof out in the middle of the thickest brush.  The route is the obvious two cracks atop each other.  Stem up the wide crack with a #4 protecting the first couple meters of it.  Protect with medium gear at the start of the roof crack.  Make a physical heel hook pull via large hands/fist jams (crux).  As with most 5.9+s in the Refuge, this crux seems sandbagged for the grade.  Belay off of medium gear in boulders atop the route.  Single from #.4 to #4.  Dow

Roof Corner- 5.10**/

Locomotive Breath- 5.10RX***/

Baldielox Bulge- 5.11dR/

Simply Red- 5.8***/

Kingfisher Caravan- 5.8**/

Hour of Power- 5.10**/

Mild and Wild- 5.7**/