Looks like an ant- stack on nice summer days
20 climbing routes from the South (200 meters), 4 from the North(600 meters); in addition twice or trice as much "historic" routes that nobody does.
Easiest route: 5 meters UIAA II (not exposed), the rest is a _very_ exposed hiking trail. Better not to drink a "summit liquor". In winter take the Wester arete, (300 meters III and 1 step VI / III A0)
Guidebooks
"Allgaeu Kletterfuehrer" edited by Panico http://www.panico.de
"Alpenvereinsfuehrer Tannheimer Berge" edited by Rother http://www.rother.de

Getting There

South face:
Motorway A7 (Germany) ==> Wertach / Oy
Road dir. Hindelang ==> Oberjoch
Road dir. "Tannheimer Tal" ==> big parking "gimpelhaus" 1 km behind Haldensee
Hiking trail ==> Gimpelhaus (1 1/2 hrs.)
Hiking trail ==> base (1 hr.)
--
North face:
Motorway A7 (Germany) ==> Southernmost end
Many little roads (dir. Austria / Fernpass) ==> new Fernpass road
New Fernpass road ==> 1st exit after tunnel
Old Fernpass road (dir. Reutte) ==> Rossschlaeg
Hiking trail ==> Otto- Maier- Huette (2 1/2 hrs.)
Hiking trail 5 mts. back, 1/2 hr. through "Macchia" ==> base.
1. The trail from Rossschlaeg to Otto- Maier- Huette can be done per bike in half of the time (up) and half an hour (down)
2. there is a train station "Musau" near Rossschlaeg. Tell the Engineer that U want to leave the train in Musau. One train to Kempten each two hrs., the train needs 1 1/4 hrs. Bikers use the station "Pflach"

Red Tape

none

When To Climb

South face:
late spring, cool summer, early fall
Climbing on sunny winter days is no problem, but the descent is difficult (III, _very_ exposed). NO ABSEIL!!!
--
North face: hot summer days with completely stable weather after a long dry period. NO RETREAT POSSIBLE WHEN IT'S RAINING unless you have at least 200 meters of rope.
Other days are real adventurous, (death rate in winter AFAIK more than 10%.)
NEVER descend from Gimpel to Otto- Maier- Huette via "Judenscharte" Nobody survived in the past 20 years. Take the footpath via "Nesselwaengler Scharte"

Camping

South face:
May to October: Gimpelhaus is open - better to camp only when it's dark
rest: take care of avalanches in the "Gimpelkar", keep your distance from the slabs because there is a lot of grass under the snow.
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North face:
In good conditions the Otto- Maier- Huette is open no matter of the season. Camping is no allowed but its easy 2 find a place where nobody will ask.

Mountain Conditions

http://www.tannheimertal.at
Search for Musauer Alm / Otto- Maier- Huette / Fuessener Huette / Gimpelhaus in
http://www.huettenliste.de
always use the weather forecast in in
http://www.wetterzentrale.de/topkarten/fsfaxsem.html
http://www.wetterzentrale.de/pics/semb24.html
http://www.wetterzentrale.de/pics/semb48.html
...
http://www.wetterzentrale.de/pics/semb120.html
It's the best forecast in europe on the net.

Images