This page was deleted by a former SP member, rescued by Andy and put for adoption ...
I have climbed the Contamine Route on the West Face years ago and therefore being asked to adopt the page ...
Therefore I took over the responsibiliy and adopted the page in November 2004

Overview

Mighty mountain on the main ridge dividing the Glacier de Leschaux (France) and the Glacier de Freboudze (Italy)

Its scructure is quite simple : 3 wall on the italian side and 2 walls on the french one.
On its walls and ridges some very important alpinistic routes.

Getting There

Two different approaches :

from Italy - Val Ferret - Bivacco Gervasutti (2870m)
to get it you must start walking from Lavachey, cross the Dora river, get the Freboudze
and follow a small track that leads you to the Bivacco di Freboudze (2360M) - 2 hours - passages of 2° UIAA (PD)
Then along tracks toward NW get the Freboudze glacier.
Cross under the eastern part of it (danger of ice falls) and pass to the left of a rocky ridge coming down.
Here you must find the best way to reach the rocky isle of the Bivacco (less than 2 hours from Bivacco di Freboudze)

from France - Chamonix-Montenvers - Refuge de Leschaux (2450m)
along the tracks on the Mer de Glace (same as for Rif. du Requin) till it turns to right.
Now you have to cross it (red marks) till the lateral moraine to get the Glacier de Leschaux.
Cross the medial moraine and follow directly on the glacier.
The Refuge is on the east margin.
(3 hours from Montenvers)

Routes overview

from Italian side (Bivacco Gervasutti)
Normal route NE ridge from Col des Petites Jorasses - PD
alternative route ENE slopes - PD - good in early season but can be dangerous for summit corniche fall

East wall Bonatti-Mazeaud - 500 m - ED + aided climbing
South edge Castelli.-Rivero - 500m - TD sup
SSW face Mayer-Dibona - AD - danger of falling stones - used for coming down
S face Gasparotto-Edwards - D - almost forgotten
SW ridge Boccalatte-Piolti - AD (?) - forgotten

coming down normal route SE side of the SW ridge - rappels with existing anchors

from French side (Refuge de Leschaux)
West wall Contamine-Bron-Labrunie - 700 m - TD
NW side Charlet-Migot - 700 m - mixed rock and ice

West wall pics

When To Climb

Summer !!!!
July - August ... you have to find clean rocks for all the routes

Mountain Conditions

External Links

mountain guide

Images



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