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Romsdalshorn
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Romsdalshorn

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Romsdalshorn

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Romsdal, Norway, Europe

Lat/Lon: 62.49050°N / 7.78587°E

Object Title: Romsdalshorn

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Elevation: 5085 ft / 1550 m

 

Page By: hansw

Created/Edited: Apr 29, 2010 / Feb 4, 2012

Object ID: 617536

Hits: 6348 

Page Score: 87.53%  - 25 Votes 

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Overview

 
Painting of Romsdalshorn
Romsdalshorn painted by Johan Fredrik Eckersberg.

The Romsdal Alps are a sort of “Scandinavian Chamonix” Tom Patey wrote after a visit in 1959. He expressed in a very good way the feeling you have when standing in the Romsdal valley. On one side rises the famous thousand meter vertical Troll Wall and on the opposite side stands the beautiful 1550 meter tall Romsdalshorn with its typical silhouette, often compared to the Matterhorn.

The Troll Wall with its vertical climbing routes and also its prohibited skydiving activities are only for the few. The Romsdalhorn, however, with climbing routes in Norwegian grades 3 and 4 corresponding to YSD 5.4 and 5.5, is a realistic alternative for a wider group of mountaineers. The Romsdalhorn is in fact one of the classic climbs in Norway and a major attraction for mountaineers along with the Galdhøpiggen, Glittertind and a few others.

History

As a consequence of a bet the Romsdalshorn was first climbed in 1828 by the two locals Christen Christensen Storsveen and Hans Haldorsen Bjermeland. They arrived at the foot of the North Wall but chose to go round to the south side where they climbed to the summit along the route later named “Halls renne”.

In 1881 the Dane Carl Hall finally reached the summit after six unsuccessful attempts. Together with Mathias Soggemoen and Erik Norahagen he stood on the summit where he disappointedly could see the cairn raised fifty years earlier. Hall is remembered for having done the best known second ascent in Norway and having given his name to the route up the mountain from the south.

The Romsdalhorn is for ever linked to Arne Randers Heen, called “The King of Romsdalshorn.” Starting in 1928 he climbed the “Horn” a total of 233 times. He built a stone hut and several cairns and even a small flower garden on the flat summit. In 1985 at the age of eighty he climbed Romsdalshorn for the last time.

In the Norwegian Mountain Museum (Norsk Tindemuseum) in Åndalsnes collections from Arne Randers Heens adventures in the Romsdal Alps are on display.
 
The North Wall is to the left of the right skyline
The North Wall is to the left of the right skyline. Note the person down to the right.
 
Up Side Down
Arne Randers Heen up side down on his summit hut.
 
The Summit Hut
The hut in modern time, 1995.
 
Reading the Summit Log
Sitting in the stone chair reading the summit log.



To Get There

The closest town is Åndalsnes located at the mouth of the river Rauma.

By land:
From Oslo E6 Northward to Dombås 375 km
From Trondheim E6 Southward to Dombås 160 km
From Dombås E136 Westward to Åndalsnes 105 km

By air to Molde and train to Åndalsnes.

From Åndalsnes to Isfjorden and continue to the end of the road in Vengedalen. From here there are several climbing routes to the summit.


Show larger map

Climbing routes

Halls Renne
This is the old way up the mountain used by the first party. This route is somewhat easier than the North wall with climbing of 3+. The start is from inner part of the Vengesdalen leading up to the col between Lille Romsdalshornet and Romsdalshorn. From there the summit is reached by the south ridge. Allow 8 to 10 hours to complete the tour.

North Wall
This is one of the most popular climbing routes in all of Norway. Start again from Vengedalen and walk up towards Litlfjellet and continue to the start of the North Wall. From here it is 300 meters of climbing with sections of grade 4. Beware of rock fall especially if there are parties higher up. Allow 8 to 10 hours to complete the tour.
 
The Troll Wall
The Troll Wall seen from the summit of Romsdalshorn.
 
On the North Wall Route
On the Romsdalhorn North Wall route.
 
Rappelling down the North Wall
Rappelling down the Romsdalhorn North Wall route.
 
The River Rauma and the Romsdalshorn
Romsdalshorn seen from the river Rauma.

Climbing the North Wall Route

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Maps and books

 
Romsdal Map
From Romsdalen, Turkart, 1:80.000

One Man’s Mountan by Tom Patey from 1971. Chapter: With Arne Randers Heen on the Romsdalshorn.

Red Tape

 
Åndalsnes
A Romsdalshorn patch.

No permits or fees.

External Links

 
An SPer on the Summit
An SPer on the summit of Romsdalshorn with the Troll Wall behind.

Climbing in Romsdal
Romsdalshorn.com
Romsdal on Wikipedia
Winter ascent
Summit quizzes
Norsk Tindemuseum


Images

Rappelling down the North Wall An SPer on the Summit Reading the Summit LogThe North Wall is to the left of the right skylinePainting of Romsdalshorn Up Side Down On the North Wall Route
The Troll Wall The Summit HutThe River Rauma and the Romsdalshorn Romsdal MapÅndalsnes