Treasure Cove, 5.6-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Treasure Cove is not a cove but rather a gully.  Its approach is longer and requires more effort than any other climbing destination at Charon Gardens.  Although it has climbs facing east and west on either side of the gully, most of its climbs are fully exposed to sun in late September for a good portion of the day.  The rock quality on the majority of the routes is below average even by Wichita standards. 

Despite the quantity of routes, there are not any decent trad climbs worth mentioning in Treasure Cove.  The bolted routes tend to be extremely run out and some of the hardware needs replaced as of 2021.  A wall on the east side of the gully, named Moon Rock Wall, offers the best rock and harbors a classic moderate sport climb for the area named Moonraker, 5.10c***, as well as a cool but short off-width named Houston We Have a Problem, 5.11***.  The west side of the gully is made up of a lower and upper wall.  The lower wall is named Pryomania and offers little visibility of its routes from below in the gully but does have a few stellar shade trees at the base of its approach pitch, Catwalk, 5.6*, which is needed to reach most of the rest of the climbs.  The upper wall is named Dog Wall and offers better visibility of its routes while negotiating massive boulders on approach. Further up the gully there are two smaller walls that are a part of Treasure Cove, Snake Pit and Refuge Rocks.  Treasure Cove offers one of the largest collection of climbs in the refuge, but the quality of these routes leaves much to be desired.

Park at the Sunset parking lot or if the gate is closed, just before the gate.  Hike a trail west past bathrooms and across a bridge.  Continue to  nice stone steps (2021) that lead through the Charon Gardens, made up of small oak trees that provide 100% shade. Continue on the trail until you reach a typically dry creak bed.  There may or may not be a sign present.  Turn left (south) on a well-travelled trail.  Follow this trail through a cool drainage area full of interesting small caves.  The Pear and Apple features will soon come into view.  Stay in the drainage until you reach a left turn junction past the Pear and Apple.  Turn left and head east on a well-traveled trail.   Treasure Cove is an obvious large gully to the north.  Leave the trail to follow a ridge on the west side of the gully.  Traverse into the gully at the top of the ridge and scramble up through massive boulders.  It is approximately a 40-minute approach to the base of Dog and Moon Rock Walls which are located across from each other.

Route Descriptions, On Approach, from Bottom to Top

Pyromania Area, Left to Right, West Side of Gully

Pyromania- 5.10c**/

Catwalk- 5.6*/

Nasty Habits- 5.9**/

Pint Sized Goddess- 5.8RX*/

Sunday Stroll- 5.6*/

Salty Dog- 5.8**/

Moon Rock Wall, Right to Left, East Side of Gully

Fear of the Left- 5.7/

Apollo- 5.11bR****/

Tranquility Base- 5.10RX****/

Moonraker- 5.10c***/

Pull My Finger- 5.9RX/

Houston, We Have a Problem- 5.11***/

Dog Wall, Left to Right, West Side of Gully

Buffalo Stance- 5.8/

Poodle Power- 5.10cR***/

Poodle Bait- 5.6**/

Fifi in a Blender- 5.9RX/

Quiche Lorraine- 140’-5.7RX**/ I don’t think this route deserves an “X”.  Climb up the left side of the upper east face named “Dog Wall Right”.  Climb the right side of a faint water streak on better edges.  The runout is at the beginning with one brassie placement.  Continue up left protecting in an intermittent crack.  Traverse the face up and right to an easy left facing corner.  Rap chains are atop this corner (2021).  Single to #2.  A 70m rope gets you straight down to the top of an easy chimney to downclimb.  Southeast facing.  Dow

Space Dogs- 5.10R***/

Jolly Rover- 5.8RX/ This one does deserve the “X” until at least the first bolt is replaced.  A chossy lichen covered route with a bad bolt start (2021).  Climb steep lichen covered rock out of a “hole” in the boulder field.  Clip a bad bolt (2021) and continue up the well featured but steep ground through two more bolts before meeting Quiche at the base of the left facing finishing corner.  Rap chains are atop this corner (2021).  Single to #2.  A 70m gets you straight down to the top of an easy chimney to downclimb.  Southeast facing.  Dow

Metamorphic Asshole- 5.9R/

Phillip Mitchell Memorial Route- 5.8R**/

Snake Pit Wall, Left to Right, West Side of Gully

Viper- 5.9R*/

Sidewinder- 5.11bRX**/

Copperhead- 5.10*/

Diamondback- 5.9*/

Snakebite- 5.9**/

Refuge Rocks Wall, Left to Right, West Side of Gully

Gemstone- 5.10dR**/

Adolph Smithler- 5.11aR**/

Never Trust a Bolt Steppin’ Preacher- 5.11R***/

Dauchau Doris- 5.9R**/

Home a Lohn (sic)- 5.10bRX***/