In memory of
|Aiguille de Rochefort above clouds - Photo by allari|
Rahel Maria Liu, the former maintainer of this page. Rahel died on the Innominata Spur to Mont Blanc in a snowstorm on August 24th, 2004.
Aiguille de Rochefort - a mountain of the Mont Blanc Massif
|Rochefort Ridge||Sunset||Sunrise||View of Grandes Jorasses||Sunrise|
The Aiguille de Rochefort (4001 m) is an important mountain of the Mont Blanc MASSIF. It is not the highest point of the famous Rochefort Ridge, but the most visited summit. From the Aiguille de Rochefort, you have a wonderful view around.
The highest summit of the Rochefort crest is the Dôme de Rochefort with its 4015 m. But it is less visited than the Aiguille de Rochefort which is located about in the middle of the ridge between the Dent du Géant and the Col des Grandes Jorasses. About 50 % of the mountaineers who climb the Aiguille continue to the Dôme.
There are higher summits with more different shapes in the Mont Blanc region, but there exists only one Rochefort Ridge. Although some people think that the Rochefort Ridge ends at the Aiguille de Rochefort, this is only partly true. Viewed precisely, the end of this ridge is not before the Calotte de Rochefort, 3974 m, the NE edge pillar of the crest.
But you can leave this summit, unless you want to climb to the Bivacco Canzio at the Col des Grandes Jorasses and to traverse the Grandes Jorasses the next day.
The first climb of the Aiguille de Rochefort was on 14. August 1873 by the british climber J. Eccles with his french guides M.-C. and A. Payot. 3 years later, these 3 persons also climbed the Dôme de Rochefort for the first time. Not before July 1900, 4 mountaineers continued the Rochefort Ridge in direction of the Dent du Géant. This was the basis of the whole traverse which was undertaken for the first time by Karl Blodig and Max Horten from Bonn on the 2nd of August 1903.
* West Side of Aiguille de Rochefort - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu
On the Rochefort Ridge
Aiguille de Rochefort
The Rochefort Ridge is dreamlike. It is as unique as the Bianco Ridge at the Piz Bernina. It is one of the most beautiful and worthwhile tours. Incomparable are the horizontal passages at the part of the mountain massif together with the very exposed passages at the firn crests which seem to be like knifes, seen from the Dent du Géant.
Very attractive is the whole traverse of the Rochefort Ridge from the Col du Géant to the Col des Grandes Jorasses including the traverse of the Grandes Jorasses.
The traverse from the Col des Hirondelles to the Col du Géant is difficult and not often climbed. For this route, very much experience is necessary. The other routes, especially through the NW Face with its seracs, are climbed very scarcely.
There are routes for extreme climbers: for example the 700m high and 70° steep north-west face - a new route of Hermann Bratschko, Karl Schreiner, Emil and Karl Rupilius, climbed on the 25th of July 1932 in 12 hours. Or the 200m higher south face. On the 16th of July 1935, Francesco Ravelli and Maria de Benedetti from Torino opened a new direct route through the crumbling rock of this face.
* South Side of Aiguille de Rochefort - Rochefort Ridge and Grandes Jorasses - Photo by SalVal
The Dôme de Rochefort N Face has been climbed by Angelo Piconi and Luciano Pasi in 3 hard days from the 17th to the 19th of September 1971: the "Toni Gobbi memory route" in memory of the famous guide from Courmayeur (first winter climb of the Grandes Jorasses Hinrondelles ridge, Aiguille Noire S Ridge, "Major route" through the Mont Blanc Brenva flank). He died with the age of 65 years 1970 in an avalanche at the Sassopiatto (Plattkofel - Dolomites).
* Peaks on the way:
Dent du Géant (4013 m) - Aiguille de Rochefort (4001 m) - Dôme de Rochefort (4015 m) - Calotte de Rochefort (3974 m)- Pointe Walker (4208 m)
Photos by andrea.it - Antonio Giani - Rahel Maria Liu
|Dent du Géant||Aiguille de Rochefort||Dôme de Rochefort||Calotte de Rochefort||Pointe Walker|
Route Overview* Aiguille de Rochefort - seen above an icy lake on Mont de la Saxe - Sept 21st 2017 (Photo by Gangolf Haub)
Dent du Géant - Rochefort Ridge - Grandes Jorasses
AD, II and I, 200 hm, length: 800m, 3 1/2-5 h from Rif. Torino, 1 1/2 h from the beginning of the ridge, as descent 1 h less (Eberlein)
* Route from Rifugio Torino to Aiguille de Rochefort
AD, 2 h from the col to the 'dining room'. 1-2h from the 'dining room' to the Aig. de Rochefort, 816 hm Rébuffat
III, AD, 4 h from the hut (Laroche/Lelong)
III, AD (Damilano/Perroux)
route from 1972: IV 3. 600 m (Damilano/Perroux)
'Bye Bye Baby: VI 6. 600 m. Seracs (Damilano/Perroux)
Route from 1932: V 3. 600 m (Damilano/Perroux)
Photos by Antonio Giani, mikus, andrea.it, badyl, kiss istvan and Rahel Maria Liu
Descent over the glacier de Leschaux to Montenvers:
|Route||Rif. Torino||Start||Below R||On the Ridge||RochefortR||On the summit||Good view||Ridge||On the way||Rochefort||The Ridge|
PD, 6-7 h to Montenvers (Eberlein)
Classic route: II, AD (Damilano/Perroux)
Traverse Aiguille de Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses (4208 m)
Over the glacier du mont Mallet: III, AD, 300 m (Damilano/Perroux)
IV, 6-8 h from the Col du Géant to the Col des Grands Jorasses; 6-8 h from the Col des Grands Jorasses to the Pointe Walker. 5-6 h from the Pointe Walker to the Col des Hirondelles, 850 hm, long mixed route of which the second part is very committing (Rébuffat).
* Climbing the Rochefort Ridge - Photos by Rahel Maria Liu, andrea.it, Mathias Zehring, afrank, kiss istván, Antonio Giani, Joerg Marretsch, badyl, mikus, DoJo, Gui Lemmens, Luk Janssens, MichaelJ, Flex, allari
From Col des Grandes Jorasses to Calotte de Rochefort: IV D, 5c (Damilano/Perroux)
* Climber's Logs
Getting There* Panoramic View from the Glacier du Géant (Photo by Rahel Maria Liu)
To the Aiguille de Rochefort
Aiguille Verte - Dent du Géant - Aiguille de Rochefort
You can come from Les Cosmiques.
To Les Cosmiques:
You can come from the Rifugio Torino.
In order to reach the hut, you need about 1/2 h from the Aiguille du Midi.
To the Rifugio Torino
If you leave the cable car station via the bridge, you go to the South summit. On the firn ridge, you go down in SE direction of an even ridge platform; then turn right to the S and in SW direction below the S Face of the Aiguille du Midi. Pay attention to crevasses!
You reach the Aiguille du Midi with cable car from Chamonix.
You reach the hut directly with the cable car from Entrèves/Courmayeur (Italy).
You reach the Chamonix Valley bytrain:
You can reach the hut directly also with the Helbronner cable car from the Aiguille du Midi (to Aiguille du Midi with the cable car from Chamonix.
Or you go on foot from the Aiguille du Midi over the Glacier du Géant (3 h): From the foot of the S Face of the Aiguille du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E Face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
You go along this E Face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Now you turn to the ESE to the Col des Flambeaux. From here in a few minutes to the Rifugio Torino. It is a very beautiful glacier walk with 200 hm ascent. Difficulty: F.
From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.
You reach the Chamonix Valley by bus:
From Geneva (airport) via Annecy (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.
From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin
* Mont Blanc Range - Photo from Rahel Maria Liu, Mer de Glace...Rochefort Ridge - Photo from om, Descent 1868 - Photo from ericvola
You reach the Chamonix Valley by car:
From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205.
You reach the Val Ferret (Italy) by bus or car:
From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.
From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.
From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.
Accomodation * Panorama Aig. Verte - Aig. de Triolet - Rochefort Ridge (Photo by Hiltrud Liu)
|The refuge Les Cosmiques is situated on a shoulder between the Col du Midi and the SW ridge of the Aiguille du Midi (Cosmiques ridge).|
guarded from mid-February to mid-October
|The Rifugio Torino has 2 huts, the lower and older one and the upper, new one. Both huts are connected by a tunnel.|
guarded from mid-February to mid-October
General Information * Panorama Aig. Verte - Aig. de Triolet - Rochefort Ridge - Grand Capucin - Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Blanc (Photo by Hiltrud Liu)
TRAIN CHAMONIX VALLEY
Phone: 0033/450 53 1298 - 0033/8 36 35 35 35
BUS CHAMONIX VALLEY
0033/450530702 (Train station Chamonix)
Phone: 0033/450 53 0555 - 0033/450 53 0115
* Aiguille de ROCHEFORT - Photos by signorellil, badyl, Jeroen Vels, Hiltrud Liu and allari
Phone: 00390/165.846658, Fax 00390/165.842347
No permits or fees required, no seasonal closure
Big parking places in Chamonix and Courmayeur near the Cable Car ground station
|East Side||West Side||North Side||South Side||Back from Rochefort|
Maps&Books * Panoramic View of Rochefort Ridge and Grandes Jorasses (Photo by Hiltrud Liu)
Institut Géographique National
1:25000 no. 3630 OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
Instituto Geografico Centrale
1:25000 no. 165107 IGC Monte Bianco
1:30000 Meridiani Montagne “ Monte Bianco” map
Mappa Courmayeur cartina
* Meridiani Montagne “ Monte Bianco” map 1:30.000 - Dente del Gigante, Aiguille de Rochefort and Grandes Jorasses (Photo from AlbertoRampini)
* Google earth Glacier de Rochefort in Val Ferret - Photo from Antonio Giani
Mont Blanc Area
Hartmut Eberlein, Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer, 2000 or 2012.
Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps.
Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996. ISBN 1-898573-03-4.
Hartmut Eberlein: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. DAV-Gebietsführer. 9th ed. Munich 2000. ISBN 3-7633-2414-3.
Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998. ISBN 3-7633-7427-2.
Laroche/Lelong: Die Gipfel des Montblanc. Munich 1999.
Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Editions Ice 1996. ISBN 2950986803.
Lindsay Griffin, Mont Blanc Massif, Vol. 2 - Published Alpine Club (2002) - ISBN 0-900523-58-1.
Gino Buscaini, MONTE BIANCO, Vol. II, Guida dei Monti d'Italia, 1983.
* On the Rochefort Ridge - Photo by Rahel Liu - 2002
Aiguille de Rochefort at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
Mountain Guide Adventure
- Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
A Mountain Guide team will help you to realize your mountain and adventure dreams. A Mountain Guide team in Chamonix propose:
Bureau des Guides - France
Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur - Italy
* North Side of the ROCHEFORT RIGDE
mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.
- Photo by Antonio Giani
* ROCHEFORT RIGDE from far away
The Rochefort family N side
- Photo by mar.ali
Monte Bianco Italian Ridge - Mont Blanc as seen from Testa di Liconi
* Google Map - Photo from markhallam
* Google Map - Mont Blanc Area