Mont Dolent is an important geographical summit lying just SE of the junction of 3 frontiers: France, Italy and Switzerland. The mountain has 4 irregular faces wich provide high quality snow and ice climbs of all standards, and the view from the summit is both superb and extensive. An excellent panorama of the Mont Blanc Massif is guaranteed.
By A. Reilly and E. Whymper with M. Croz, H. Charlet and M. Payot on July 9, 1864.
FIRST WINTER CLIMB
By G. Couchepin, O. Dehms, J. Sautier and R. Schanze with M. Crettez on March 12, 1911.
MOST IMPORTANT ROUTES S face and SE ridge (Normal) - PD, 4 h from Bivacco Fiorio. Route of the first party. E ridge - AD, 4 h 30 min from Refuge-bivouac de la Maye. First climbed by A. Jacquerod and M. Kurz with J. Gabiou, Aug. 2, 1907. N ridge - D, 8 h from Refuge d'Argentière. First climbed by G. Bolaffio and J. Kugy with J. Croux and C. Savoye, July 25, 1904. N face and NE ridge - D, 8 h from Refuge d'Argentière. First climbed by J. Belleville and R. Devouassoux, June 4, 1974 NW face - TD, 8 - 10 h from Refuge d'Argentière. First climbed by M. Couturier with A. Charlet and A. Simmond, June 10, 1934. N face direct - TD, 9 h from Cabanne de l'A Neuve. First climbed by L. Dubost and L. Gevril, July 16, 1950. Pointe 3.534 m W couloir - ED 1/2, 8 h from Refuge d'Argentière. First climbed by J. Deletre and G. Perroux, April 12, 1980.
Ferret can easily be reached by public transport from all the mayor towns of Switzerland.
At Arnuva (1.769 m) there is a parking, this is the starting point to Pré de Bar hut and Bivacco Fiorio.
When To Climb
Summer always is a possibility. On the other hand, high loads of firm snow on the final slope usually are no disadvantage (with ski from March to June).
BIVACCO FIORIO (2.800 m)
CAAI, 20 places, no reservation possible, no warden. Placed on the rocky flanks that form the left bank of the Pré de Bar glacier. There is no toilet. It is a matter of common sense where you collect the water you drink. The old hut 30 m lower has room for 5. Tel: Italy-(0039)-(0)11-546031
REFUGE D'ARGENTIERE (2.771 m)
CAF, 150 places (68 in winter), guarded on February weekends (weather depends), from late February to mid May and from late June to mid Septembre, tel 04 50 53 16 92, warden tel. 04 50 54 62 51 before warden period. Placed on the right bank of the Argentière glacier at the foot of the SW (Jardin) ridge of the Aiguille d'Argentière.
LA FOULY (1.594 m)
Gîte d'étape Les Girolles, tel. 027 783 18 75
Hôtel-refuge, tel. 027 783 11 71
FERRET (1.700 m)
Restaurant-refuge, tel 027 783 11 88 or 027 783 10 57.
REFUGE BIVOUAC DE LA MAYE OR DOLENT BIVOUAC (2.667 m)
CAS, 12 places, permanently open. Guarded sometimes in summer, gaz stoves provided. Situated below the tip of the Dolent glacier on the left bank, tel: 026 912 42 84. Site.
REFUGE DE L'A NEUVE (2.735 m)
CAS, 28 places (20 in winter), warden from the end of June to the end of September. Placed under Pointes des Essettes to the east of the A Neuve glacier, tel: 027 783 24 24. Site.
Books and Maps
Guidebook (available in german or french):
Maurice Brandt: Clubfuehrer Walliser Alpen 1. Vom Trient zum Gr. St. Bernard. Lausanne 1999 Edition SAC