Bread Loaves, Decadent Wall, 5.4-5.12a

Overview/Approach

Jorge Urioste on Bestiality, 5.9

Predictably, for as many remote areas that I have climbed at the City of Rocks and Castle Rock State Park, Breadloaves (the most accessible area) is one of my least favorite locales and where you will rarely find me.  I have capitulated on a few occasions. Why do I despise climbing here so much? The crowds are the main reason, but I suffer those on occasion at Jtree, etc as well.  But for whatever reason, the lily white hipsters of SLC have far less care for their environment, whether it be litter, dog shit and/or noise then hippies, young or old, from southern California. Maybe it is those same hypocritical Christian values spread throughout the bible belt that propelled Trump to the Republican nomination in 2016, but I digress. There might as well be a train run from downtown SLC to the Breadloaves, dogs, music, crying babies and all.  Whereas, if there is at least a one mile hike involved, you will have any crag at the City or Castle all to yourselves. Thus why I have not climbed much on these walls.

Decadent Wall is broken down in Dave’s guide as Left, Right and Lower. For the purpose of simplification, I am going to include all three below. Carol’s Crack (5.8) is a popular route for new trad climbers and thus it is almost always top roped. Not to mention there are a half dozen easy 5th class routes to the left. This area starts out Decadent Wall and is therefore named Decadent Wall Left. Jay Goodwin Route (5.10a) and Kibbles and Bits (5.11a) are popular short bolted climbs that start off Decadent Wall Right. I find FDC (5.10a) and Bestiality (5.9) worthy trad routes to the left of these popular bolted climbs and this is a great place to climb and watch for an opening on the two before mentioned bolted climbs. Testosterone (5.11d) and Self Abuse (5.10d) are a couple of more difficult moderates to the right. Self Abuse is a decent trad route located on what they call Lower Decadent Wall (aka Asian Wall). All the routes on Decadent Wall are quite soft for the grade when compared to routes on other walls in the park or Castle Rocks State Park for that matter. There must have been some grade creep when these routes made it to the guide.

Drive through the park and pull into the large Breadloaves parking area at the far northwest end of the park. I have climbed routes on a feature named Go West and can give you tent campers a great pointer. There is an official camping spot on the east side of this feature that offers the most private camping spot in the entire park. You park in the large parking area and haul your stuff in, but it is worth it if you like privacy and that primitive outdoor camping feel. The Decadent wall climbs are just south of the parking area. Look for all the people and dogs or better yet, follow the wannabe gangster music.

Located Left to Right on Decadent Wall Left

• Pluton Playground- 5.5*/

• Dykes on Harleys- 5.4*/

• Loafers- 5.4*/

• Lowe Route- 5.6*/

• Twilight- 5.6**/

• Carol’s Crack-5.8***/ Soft for the grade. Not overly impressed despite its popularity nor does it deserve more than one star, but pleasant enough route. A Jtree 5.6. Fixed rap is climbers right. A 70m rope gets you down this entire wall one way or another.  Dow

• Divine Decadence- 5.9/

• Flesh for Fantasy- 5.11a*/

Located Left to Right on Decadent Wall Right

• Adolescent Homo Sapiens- 5.7***/

• FDC- 100’-5.10a**/ Just to the right of an obvious wide 5.7 named Adolescent Homo Sapiens. Worthy mixed line. Bingham’s guide states one bolt at the start, but there are two. Then a few good horizontal placements through continued face. The only 5.10a move is pulling the slightly overhanging roof above on jugs through good gear. I set up a decent gear top rope with a C4#3 and other good gear. Easily extended it back over the edge.  Dow

• Bestiality- 100’-5.9*/Good one to combine with FDC, as they are right together. Trad line up the left facing corner between FDC and Kibbles and Bits. “But you really don’t want to fall on the crux” is what the guide states. However I thought the crux (first couple meters) did protect fairly well with small gear. That section is kind of a flake mantle. Up higher offers a few meters of true hand and foot jamming. Set up a medium gear belay just below the summit at a ledge for top rope.  Dow

• Kibbles and Bits- 5.11a***/

• Jay Goodwin Route- 60’-5.10a***/All bolted.  Soft for the grade I thought. Fun crimps but not deserving of three stars in the guide when comparing to other more interesting sport climbs of this length nearby, i.e. Double Vision.  Dow

• Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll- 5.11a**/

• Life without Sex- 5.11a*/

• Another Jay Goodwin Route- 5.10c**/

• Estrogen Imbalance- 5.10dR/

• Sexual Dysfunction- 5.12a**/

• Frigidity- 5.12a/

• Testosterone Test- 5.11d***/

• Impotence- 5.10d**/

Located Left to Right on Decadent Lower Wall (Asian Wall)

• Passion for a Thrashin’- 5.5/

• Steppes of Central Asia- 5.8*/

• Stiff Vegetables- 5.11d/

• Box Lunch- 5.10d**/

• Just Hold Still- 5.11b**/

• Self Abuse-5.10d***/ “One of my all-time favorite routes!” according to Dave in his guide. I know I have climbed this route years ago and was not left with the same impression. Unfortunately I cannot find my route notes. Has a few hero like moves i.e. Colossus on Bath Rock as I recall. Starts just in the chimney. Mixed route. Fixed rap on top.  Dow

• Shaved in the Shape of a Heart- 5.10b*/