Wierch pod Fajki, Skrajny, Pośredni and Zadni Granat and Czarne Ściany
- massif in Polish Tatras between Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy Lake in the Dolina Gąsienicowa Valley and Buczynowa Dolinka Valley belonging to Dolina Pięciu Stawów Valley. This massif has three summits:
Zadni Granat (Rear) 2240 m (Zadný Granát; Südliche Granatenspitze; Déli-Gránát-csúcs)
Pośredni Granat (Middle) 2234 m (Prostredný Granát; Mittlerer Granatenspitze; Középső-Gránát-csúcs)
Skrajny Granat (Outer) 2225 m (Predný Granát; Nördliche Granatenspitze; Északi-Gránát-csúcs)
Zadni, Pośredni and Skrajny Granat
Granaty from Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy
19.9.1867 - Eugeniusz Janota, Bronisław Gustawicz and Maciej Sieczka
First winter ascents:
Granat Zadni and Pośredni - Henryk Bednarski and Stanisław Zdyb – 29.3.1908 Granat Skrajny - Mariusz Zaruski, Wacław Majewski, Władysław Pawlica and Stanisław Zdyb – 9.2.1910.
Famous Orla Perć; leads through this massif. Granaty are divided from Kozi Wierch (2291 m) by Przełączka nad Dolinką Buczynową (2225 m) Saddle and by the ridge of Czarne ściany. The highest point of this ridge is Buczynowa Strażnica (2245 m). Between Czarne ściany and Granaty, there is Zadnia Sieczkowa Przełączka Saddle (2194 m). Eastern border of this massif is created by Orla Baszta (2175 m), which is separated from Granaty by Granacka Przełęcz Saddle (2145 m).
The summits of Granaty are separated by Sieczkowe Przełączki Saddles- Pośrednia (2218 m), and Skrajna (2197 m). From the Skrajna Sieczkowa Przełączka (named after the Tatras guider Maciej Sieczka) falls in the direction of Hala Gąsienicowa Żleb Drége'a Couloir, the place of several death accidents. This couloir is named after Jan Drége. This couloir is located between Skrajny and Pośredni Granat and it falls towards Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy. At its starting point it is created by grassy slopes, but in the lower section, there is 180 m high overhanging chimney. Jan Drége was its first victim, when he started to descent with his two sisters through this couloir 23.8.1911. His sisters have waited there overnight, and then they returned up on the ridge and further to Zakopane.
23.7.1914, three tourists have been descending through this culoir – Bronisław Bandrowski, his sister Maria and Anna Hackbeilówna. They have lost their path on Granaty, so they started to descent through this couloir. On the beginning of the steep part, they decided to wait for rescue till morning. But nobody came to rescue them. Anna has decided to descent alone. She hase traversed the slopes of Granaty to the neighbouring couloir, but then she has falling down 100 m and died. Bronisław and Maria have made “rope” from belts and bags. They started descending, but they ended in the point of no return. The walls above them were very steep, and the walls below them were overhanging. 27.7.1914, 4th day in this couloir, after 7 hours in this point, Bronisław, has committed suicide. His sister has stayed here till evening, but then, she has decided to follow her brother. But fortunately, the rescue team has come.
From Skrajny Granat leads a ridge to Żółta Turnia (2087 m) (to the north). Skrajny Granat (although not the highest one) is considered to be a main summit of this massif. In the ridge of Żółta Turnia there are those saddles and summits:
Pańszczycka Przełączka Wyżnia (2171 m) – first ascent Walenty Gadowski and Antoni Panek in 1901
Zadnia Pańszczycka Czuba (2174 m) – the southern summit of Pańszczyckie Czuby; first ascent: Walenty Gadowski, Franciszek Zbyszycki in 1903
Pańszczycka Przełączka Pośrednia (2145 m)
Skrajna Pańszczycka Czuba (2155 m) - the northern summit of Pańszczyckie Czuby
Pańszczycka Przełęcz (2115 m)
Pańszczycka Turnia (2067 m)
Przełączka pod Fajki (2085 m), first ascent: Janusz Chmielowski, Jan Bachleda Tajber 17.9.1895
Wierch pod Fajki (south-eastern summit - 2135 m, north-western – 2120 m)
Żółta Przełęcz (2028 m)
Żółta Turnia (2087 m)
Western side of Granaty
The most popular for climbing is western side of Skrajny Granat with three crests divided by couloirs. The left crest is the lowest and it is mostly grassy. The middle one, connected with the first in the 2/3 of their heights is rocky. The right crest is most interesting one. Between Skrajny and Pośredni Granat is the notorious Żleb Drége'a Couloir. In its bottom part it is created by almost 200 m high chimney, closed by overhanging section. In this place leads a one exposed route (V+). To the right of Żleb Drége'a Couloir, there is another couloir - Żleb Staniszewskiego. The most interesting route on Granaty is the one leading through north-western crest of Zadni Granat, so called Filar Staszla Pillar. Long enough (over 300 m) and with two places with V degree. The eastern sides of Granaty are not so interesting, and they are divided by grassy slopes. The most interesting is route leading on the eastern pillar of Zadni Granat – the route of Biel and Jaworowski (V).
In the northern ridge of Skrajny Granat leading to Żółta Turnia, there is a beautiful climbing route - Grań Fajek (II).
Skrajny Granat (2225 m) from Dolina Pańszczycy
Wierch pod Fajki
Although it isn´t one of the Granat´s summits, this mountain belongs to the group of Granaty.
Wierch pod Fajki (2135 m) (Vrch pod Fajkami; Orgelpfeifen; Orgonasípok) two-headed mountain in the ridge leading from Skrajny Granat in the direction of Żółta Turnia. From this ridge are rising up rocky formations called fajki (pipes). This is very popular training place for beginning climbers. The summit is non-accessible for tourists.
Wierch pod Fajki (2135 m)
The higher, south-eastern summit is located in the middle of the summit ridge. The lower, north-western summit (2120 m) is considered to be a main summit, and it was made from two towers, until the thunder crushed the higher one (2121 m), and the summit has only one tower now. From this summit leads a crest with Pańszczycka Turnia (2105 m), divided from Wierch pod Fajki by Przełączka pod Fajki Saddle (2085 m)
• North-western summit (lower) - Janusz Chmielowski and Jan Bachleda Tajber 17.7. 1895
• South-eastern summit - Janusz Chmielowski and Józef Gąsienica-Tomków 2.8.1908
• Winter (both summits) - Jerzy Cybulski, Józef Lesiecki, Stanisław Zdyb 22.2.1910.
Granaty are part of the famous Orla Perć path leading from Zawrat saddle to Krzyżne saddle (red marked path).
But there are other ways too:
From Zakopane (Kuźnice) we will go to Murowaniec hut (1505 m). We have two options - yellow marked path through Dolina Jaworzynki (1 1/2 h) or the blue one via Boczań (1 1/2 h). Blue marked path leads us from Murowaniec to Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy Lake (1624 m). We are going now on the left shores of this lake to the next lake, Zmarzły Staw (1788 m). From there, we take the yellow marked path, leading to Kozia Przeł281;cz. On the junction at the height of 1852 m, we left the yellow marked path, and continue along the green marked path, to the summit of Zadni Granat. (2 1/2 h from Murowaniec).
From Zakopane (Kuźnice) we will go to Murowaniec hut (1505 m). We have two options - yellow marked path through Dolina Jaworzynki (1 1/2 h) or the blue one via Boczań (1 1/2 h). Blue marked path leads us from Murowaniec to Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy Lake (1624 m). We are going on the left shores of this lake to the junction, where the yellow marked path is going into the dwarf pines (to the left) and further to the summit of Skrajny Granat (2 1/4 h from Murowaniec).
All the three summits are part of Orla Perć, and you can climb onto them from both sides of this path, because the only "one-way" section is Zawrat saddle - Kozi Wierch.