Imposing rocky pyramide in a lateral ridge separating great High Tatra valleys of Velka and Mala Studena
Prostredny Hrot at sunrise
One of the most honourable, beatiful, prominent and at the same time one of the hardest to climb of High Tatra peaks .
What characterizes the massif is its unusually complicated structure even for Tatra conditions .
It is really an ocean of haughty crags, with huge vertical spaces of pure granite rock, walls offering absolutely wonderful climbing possibilities, couloirs and gutters of every level of difficulty and so on ...
The name of the peak comes from the fact that the peak lies between two branches of one huge valley system, in the very "middle" (prostredny = middle) .
Viewing from practically all directions Prostredny Hrot presents itself equally impressive, just all of its faces are so beatiful that it is simply too subjective to rate which one is the most impressive !
No marked routes in the whole massif makes the area a real wilderness and sanctuary of mountain nature .
First ascent :
11.VIII.1876 - Paul Schwartz, Odon Tery and guides Samuel Horvay and Johann Still
First winter ascent :
2.IV.1904 - Karoly Jordan, J.Lackner, Jozsef Szelke and guides Johann Breuer and Paul Spitzkopf senior
Prostredny Hrot (2441)
Prostredny Hrot above Velka Studena Valley
Prostredny Hrot - one of the most beatifully shaped among High Tatra peaks rises proudly between Mala Studena and Velka Studena valleys as the highest culmination in a long, lateral, SE ridge outgoing in nearby Siroka Veza from the main Tatra chain.
The peak has got two prominent summits :
NW - Maly Prostredny Hrot
SE - the main one - Prostredny Hrot(2441)
Sedlo za Prostrednym Pass separates the peak from Zlta Veza(2385)peak while
Sedlo pred Prostrednym pass separates it from the crag of Chmurna Veza(2255).
In Prostredny Hrot's NE slopes, there rises a separate and prominent crag of Zlta Stena(2169) famous mainly from its 180 m high vertical cliff falling down to the bottom of Mala Studena Valley nearby Teryho Chalet's building which partly explains its unabated popularity among climbers over the years.
The long ridge expanding from Prostredny Hrot's main summit towards south-east between Mala and Velka Studena valleys is so called Prostredny Hreben full of haughty crags to mention the most remarkable ones : Chmurna Veza, Velky Kostol, Maly Kostol and Ostepy.
The height of Prostredny Hrot faces varies from 300 metres (SE face around Komarnickis' Pillar) up to 750 metres (S face above Velka Studena Valley. Each of them offers wide choice of climbing routes of different technical difficulties.
The whole “Prostredny Hrot climbing project” usually starts from Stary Smokovec beautiful spa, ski and mountain tourism centre on Slovak side of Tatra Mountains(since November 2004 the landscape around chenged totally due to disastrous wind that demolished Slovak Tatra forests).
Poprad has very good communication links with whole Slovakia (many bus links to Polish border at Lysa Polana so it is easy to get to Slovak side of Tatra Mountains coming from Polish side especially in summer season), there is also an airport (probably the highest situated one in Europe - 710 meters above the sea level).
The first step of our mountain trip to Prostredny Hrot leads from Stary Smokovec to Hrebienok(1285) and then higher and higher through Velka Studena valley or its twin sister Mala Studena valley. There is a cable railway from the center of Stary Smokovec to Hrebienok(5,70 Euro - one way ).
No marked routes in Prostredny Hrot massif
Marked routes in the area of Velka and Mala Studena valleys :
Stary Smokovec(1010) – Hrebienok(1285)
Green marks or road ,3 km ,0.50 h
Tatranska Lomnica(850) – Rainerova Hut (crossing of marked router to Velka and Mala Studena Valleys)
Blue Marks ,6 km ,2 h
Tatranska Lesna(915) – Rainerova Hut
Yellow Marks ,4.5 km ,1.30 h
Hrebienok(1285) – Bilikova Chata(1255) - Vodopady Studeneho Potoka (Cold Water Waterfalls) – Rainerova Hut
Green marks ,1.3 km ,0.20 h
Hrebienok(1285) – 0.50 h - Zamkovskeho Chata(1475) – Mala Studena Dolina – 1.25 h – Teryho Chata(2015) .
Red (to Rainerova Hut) and then Green Marks ,6.5 km ,2.30 h