Hidden Falls Area, 5.8-5.13b

Overview/Approach

 
Hidden Falls is the most abundant climbing crag at the Willow Springs turn off in Red Rocks National Conservation Area. It offers over 30 single pitch trad and sport routes, most over 100’ tall, via a short approach from the Lost Creek parking area. Hidden Falls is also a popular short hike destination for tourists via a boardwalk, so on weekends, expect quite a few folks through here. They are hiking back to view Hidden Falls itself, which is nothing spectacular, except to say it is always flowing, which is unusual at Red Rocks. These routes are located at the terminus of Lost Creek Canyon on both sides. The northwest facing wall can be surprisingly cold, even on warm sunny days. The better trad lines are Left Out, 5.10d, and Black Track, 5.9, both 100’+/- routes on the left side.

Exit the Red Rocks loop road for Willow Springs at 7.3 miles. Pull out at the first parking area, Lost Creek. A trail cuts straight west for the falls. There are even portions of boardwalk in place (2008). The first routes are on the right side of the canyon. Black Track and Left Out are stellar routes further in, on the left wall. Way back to the right of the waterfall itself sits a crack named The Threat, 5.10c.

Route Description(s)

   
The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Circumvent through the Boxed Canyon

These Routes are out on 2 Boulders at the Front

• Scooped- 25’- 5.12d/
TR

• Pooped- 25’- 5.12d/
TR

These Routes are on the Left Wall

• Pointless- 30’- 5.10b/


• Stupid- 70’- 5.8/


• Killer Clowns- 120’- 5.10c/


• Left Out- 90’- 5.10d/


• Outrageous Fortune- 90’- 5.13b/


• Left Out- 90’- 5.10d/


• Black Track- 100’- 5.9/
This is a fantastic black varnished single pitch crack at Red Rocks. Pretty consistent grade from bottom to top, hand jamming the whole way, no bolts. You pass an anchor at 70’ used for Big Foot to the right. Continue up an easy off width section to the top or head out onto the face to the left past 2 bolts to the anchor (5.11c). Herbst put this obvious line in way back by Red Rocks standards, 1973. Take a single rack to 4”.

• Stupid Foot- 60’- 5.11a/
TR

• Big Foot- 60’- 5.10a/
This is a edgy face route up 4 bolts to an anchor. You start up an easy ramp to the right, so it is really shorter than 60’ even. Worth doing if you are already here and not freezing to death (this wall can be cold in the winter, early spring).

• Camel Toe- 60’- 5.10a/


• Buffalo Bills- 40’- 5.11d/


• Brave Like a Flash- 110’- 5.11a/


• Coronet- 80’- 5.12c/


These Routes are on the Right Wall

• The Threat- 80’- 5.10c/


• Flight Line- 80’- 5.12c/


• Mind Bomb- 60’- 5.11d/


• Tholian Web- 50’- 5.10b/


• Bowling Balls and BB Brains- 50’- 5.10c/


• Little Big Horn- 90’- 5.9+/
Not to be confused with Big Horn on the Spectrum Wall. My particular partner this day took the biggest whipper of his career here. Wish my body could attest that was no longer than any I took. So this pitch can be a bit tricky on lead. The rock on this side of Lost Creek Canyon is not near as good as it is on the other side. This route starts out up easy ground until you hit a crack above that sucks you below a roof to the left. Enter the corner via the crux move (hard to protect while in awkward matching position) and turn the burly roof via a large reachy hold or two. Follow the varnished slab to the top and rappel off of a precarious large horn several meters to the left (rap slings-2008). Single rack to 2.5”.

• Grippity Gravity- 120’- 5.10b/


• Sportin’ a Woody- 90’- 5.11d/


• Captain Hook- 150’- 5.11c/


• Captain Curmudgeon- 150’- 5.11a/


• Captain Crunch- 150’- 5.10c/


• Cochise- 120’- 5.8/


• Tuckered Starfish- 100’- 5.10c/


• Rock Rastler- 100’- 5.12c/


• Heatwave- 80’- 5.10a/


• Hot Climb- 30’- 5.10c/

External Links

• Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM


• Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association


• DowClimbing.Com
Red Rocks

Images

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