Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 39.32870°N / 105.1539°W
County: Douglas
Activities: Trad Climbing
Season: Fall
Elevation: 8224 ft / 2507 m


North Noddle might or might not be the taller of the two peaks. From our observation, it looked to be taller than South Noddle. Either way, it is a super cool looking peak, and has a fun route up it - a 5.8 trad-climb route. There is also a 5.10b route on the SE face called Sounds of a Desperate Man. We did not attempt this line.

During our ascent of this fine little peak, we added 2-2 bolt rap/anchor stations, so the route we climbed can safely be rappelled with 1 60m rope. If you have 2 60m ropes, you can rappel all the way to the ground. a 50m will not get you to the intermediate anchors. This peak is 95%+ great rock. Very solid Pikes Peak granite, and fairly clean as well (very little lichen). There are opportunities for further route development on this rock, specifically the north/NW side, which ascends a steep ramp to the right of the huge overhang and looks like it would ascend some very large broken blocks. From the hanging garden area north of the true summit, you would still have to up climb the last bit to the top for a summit. Further route development on the east face is also a possibility, but definitely in the .10+ ranges, too hard for me.

Getting There

From the base of the South Noddle (aka 4th Noddle), head north on the soft ridgeline. You can't help but run into the rock.

Red Tape

None. See main Noddle Head page.


See main Noddle Head page for more info.

External Links

See main Noddle Head page.