Telluride has many sport climbing cliffs just outside the town. Although Telluride is not considered a rock climbing destination, one can find a variety of rocks in the close vicinity of a cool historic mountain town. From high altitude conglomerate and granite routes, to sun-baked sandstone, Telluride has it all. And they even have Via Ferrata. (Access for the Via Ferrata and the Pipeline Wall is the same. Via Ferrata runs above this wall and with its increasing popularity one can just hope that hikers on ferrata will not throw rocks onto climbers below). And not far away are western's Colorado's desert towers, and the climbing area described by Charlie Fowler as Wild Wild West. This area of Wild Wild west is in a more desert like environment and rock climbing is possible here even during sunny winter days. The Ophir Wall and adjacent Cracked Canyon is probably the most famous rock climbing area around Telluride. The Ophir Wall is 1000 high and offers many multi-pitch climbs. (Jug Handle, Hot Wee Wee) The Pipeline Wall is located on the east side of town, near the Bridal Veil Falls. To reach this wall you have to drive through the town.
Approach: From the Main street in Telluride drive 1.5 miles east where the pavements ends. Continue east through the mine entrance and up the dirt road. Pass the parking lot for Bridal Veil Falls, and continue couple more switchbacks to a small pullout on left side of the dirt road. Walk on a nice path towards the mine, then then the Pipeline Wall. You can also park down at the parking lot, especially if you have a low clearance vehicle. The parking area is pretty small and since it is also an approach for the Via Ferrata, it may be hard to find a spot.
Name: there is a pipeline running along the base of this crag. Type of rock: Conglomerate Height: 80 to 200 feet Style: sport Season: late spring, summer, fall Approach Time: 15 min There are 21 bolted routes (bring at least 14 draws), and one trad route. The area was developed mostly in early 2000s, the Original Trad Route was climbed in 80s - this one is traditional route.
Routes Listed From Approach (right to left) 1. Black & Tan 5.10+ Climb a face past 10 bolts to an anchor. *** 2. Shaggy Donkey 5.hard Climb the bolted face to an anchor. 3. Project Climb the right facing corner up to an anchor. 4. Dangler 5.10- 2 pitches. Pitch 1 has 8 bolts to an anchor (5.8). Pitch 2 up through an overhang and up a face past 10 bolts to an anchor. A new anchor was added halfway up the second pitch to eliminate the need for second rope. 5. Dolittle Does Something 5.11+ 9 bolts to an anchor. 6. High Motivation 5.10 Climb a face past bolts to an anchor. *** 7. Dreams of Ambition 5.10+ Climb a hard face past bolts. 8. Can't Touch This 5.11- 2 pitches. Pitch 1 is 5.9 face past 7 bolts. Pitch 2 is up and right of a overhang past 8 bolts ** 9. Rock Cobbler 5.7 bolts to an anchor. 10. Skylight Arete 5.8 3 pitches. Pitch 1 a face past 10 bolts. Pitch 2 more face climbing past 7 bolts. Pitch 3 up and left past 12 bolts. Rap down Ame's Way with one 60 meter rope. *** 11. Ame's Way 5.7 3 pitches. Pitch 1 climb a face just to the right of the large corner, 7 bolts. Pitch 2 continues up the face past 7 bolts. Pitch 3 heads up to the top of the corner, past 7 bolts. ** 12. Whipping Post 5.11+ Climb the long face passing 12 bolts. You need two ropes to rap off this route. *** 13. Whip or Will 5.11- Climb face past 9 bolts to an anchor. 14. Crystal Cruise 5.8 Climb a face past 6 bolts. 15. Crystal Squeeze 5.9 Climb past 7 bolts. 16. Rocksteady 5.10+ Climb the thin face past 8 bolts.*** 17. Real Tomato Ketchup 5.10+ 18. Contortionist 5.10+ a fun climb past 8 bolts. *** 19. Shark Skin Leisure Suit 5.11+ a killer route past 10 bolts ** 20. Pong 5.10+ PG13 end of the road, 10 bolts 21. Ping 5.10+ end of the road, another fun bolted route. Original Route has two pitches. It is located between routes 9 and 10. This was the first route climbed on this wall. This gear route climbs a crack and eventually merges with the large corner and continues to the top.