Odyssey, 5.9-5.12

Overview/Approach

I have climbed most of the routes at the City of Rocks and the most stunning and athletic off width in the entire park is a short route named Half Moon, 5.10d**, located in a left facing corner on the west face of the formation named Odyssey.  Odyssey along with the Box Top formation is situated between South Creek and Center Creek to the west of the Dolphin. Its dozen published routes are located on its broad west face and therefore offers shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon.  For a full day, it is best to combine the best of Box Top and Odyssey.  Box Top has several good east facing routes that complement the sun-shade factor of Odyssey’s west face.

Half Moon and the route namesake, Odyssey, 5.12**, are no doubt the two main draws to Odyssey the formation which the guide states as hosting “several peculiar routes”).  Half Moon is an “odyssey” of a route for the city.  It is an outstanding off width which in and of itself makes it stand out as the City does not have that many good off width climbs compared to desert sandstone destinations.  Half Moon is also unique in that it features sharp calcite inside the wide corner making pro somewhat intricate.   You never get much of your body inside the wide crack with the exception of a knee jam, arm bar and a single chicken wing at the top.  The difficulty lies in the final meters of overhang.  There is no anchor for Half Moon but it is easy to rap Hang Ten’s fixed anchor.  Hang Ten, 5.10b**, is a stout sport route for the grade at the City.  It involves a tricky traverse in from the right and a solid move at the grade mid-way up.  It is definitely worth doing.  This Driving Night, 5.9**, was on stellar rock, but short and easy for the grade.  Climbing Driving Night gives you a great view of the name sake route on this wall (to the left) which looks stellar.  Quoting the guide, the Odyssey route is “one of the best hand cracks at the City” (large photo in the guide).  But of course there is a 5.12 entry sequence before you reach those hands.

Start at the Boxtop trailhead at the City (near campsite #10).  Descend the trail until it crosses South Creek.  The first formation on your right after crossing the creek is Odyssey and you are starring at the west wall where all of its routes are located. Boxtop is just a few meters to the north. 20 Minutes +/-.

Routes Listed Left to Right on the West Face

Why be Normal- 70’-5.11b*/

Odyssey- 80’-5.12***/

Ouch- 5.11a**/

Pigeon Crack- 5.11*/ (full of poop)

This Driving Night- 40’-5.9***/ Nice looking varnished bolted arête about 10 meters to the left of Half Moon, climbing a left facing featured arête in a scoop.  One piton and two bolts through about 40’ vs the 50’ quoted in the guide. Chain anchors.  Dow

Half Moon- 60’-5.10d**/ One of the more challenging off widths at the City.   Take on the left facing wide corner.  It is full of sharp textured quartzite/calcite.  The first half is relatively easy going.  As it starts to overhang your right leg gets pushed out, facing the right for a meter or two of crux climbing (grunting).  There is an internal crack in the back that starts at fingers and goes to hands.  The exit is awkward via a chicken wing mantle.  Single rack to C4#5 but 5’s can be in your way to the outside.  With the overhanging nature of the crux it is better to place gear as deep as you can making 6’s obsolete at the crux.  Will need to bring up the 2^nd or rig a top rope off of Hang Ten.  Dow

Hang Ten- 60’-5.10b**/ Fully bolted climb with two cruxes at the grade:   the starting traverse left to the arête and midway up via sequential face holds.  Has its own chain anchor.  Dow

Just Another Mormon on Drugs- 5.10b*/ Trad route inside the next arête to the right.  Dirty and cruxy start over a bunch of cacti.  Vegetation needs cleaned out of crack, but still will not make it an appealing route, not worth the effort.  Guide book author seems to give a star to every route in his book regardless of quality or whether he has climbed it (maybe he is the Mormon on drugs?).  Dow

This is Not My Beautiful Wife- 5.11a*/