Orgui d'U San Petru, a granite jewel of Bavella
Orgui d'u San Petru (meaning St. Peter's Organ Pipes) is an aesthetic crag lying East to Col de Bavella, close to Tafunata di Paliri majestic North Face. Its West side is a compact cliff of first-class pink granite; West face shows several mighty pillars – the “Orgui” - on which some climbing routes had been realized.
The main entrance into Bavella group is Bavella Pass mt. 1211.
ROAD ITINERARIES TO COL DE BAVELLA
- From BASTIA (Corsica Eastern coast) take the road RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, turn to right following D268 to Col de Bavella (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From AIACCIO (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow the road D268 to Col de Bavella.
From Col de Bavella go down along the road D268 towards Solenzara, reaching the “Arza Forestal House” (Maison Forestiere d’Arza). Parking. Just below the house follow on the right a forestal road crossing some streams on some causeways. After the last stream – Riu San Petru – the forestal road reachs the orographic right side of the valley. After another bridge, a cairn marks on the right-hand side the path to Finosella Pass. Leave the forestal road and follow the path, crossing a dried stream. Don’t follow the first track on the right marked by a cairn, but go on along the main path; at the second cairn turn to right and rise along a narrow trail leading to the cliff.
Orgui di San Petru routes from left to right (French scale)
A - "J'aime pas les canyon mais je me soigne" TD+, 6b+, 70 m.
B - “La lune dans le caniveau” ED inf., 6c obbl. 150 mt.
C - "La malediction du voyageur" TD, 6b+, 100 m., bolts
B - “Canistrelli” TD, 6a+ max, 6a obbl. 180 mt., bolts
C - “Bon pied, bon oeil” TD, 6a obbl. 180 mt.
D - “Lilith” TD, 6b obbl. 180 mt.
E - “Canta” TD, 6b obbl. 160 mt.
F - “Dilliriu” ED inf., 7a max., 6b obbl. 160 mt., bolts, friends useful
G - "Mal Conciliu" TD+, 6b+ max, 6b obbl., 160, only the belays are equipped
Canistrelli report (French Scale)
Summit altitude: mt. 724
Difficulty: TD, F6a obbl.
Length: 180 m.
First ascent: J.L. Fenouil – S. Bignon 1993
Starting: San Petru Forestal Road near “Arza Forestal House” - Road D268 Col de Bavella
A fine route, the classic one of the cliff, running on the superb and peculiar “Bavella” granite. The climbing way is quite technical along magnificent steep slabs. Equipped with bolts.
L1 - Just on the left side of the lower point of the cliff climb some slabs. 6a
L2 - Lightly towards right, reaching a “tafone”; climb it following a corner on the left-hand side of the “tafone”, then some dihedral-cracks leading to a small step. 6a+
L3 - After a short slab a hard move to climb a short shallow corner, then a slabs spur to a belay on a tree. 6a
P4 - From a small ledge beyond the tree climb a steep wall – another crux move - then climb slantways towards right over the upper wall. Belay on a step with a hole. 6a+
L5 – Some shallows corners along the last pillar, then a slab leads to a stance below the summit.
L6 – A curious move, then a chimney leading to a big pine near the summit. Not equipped pitch.
Descent: from the summit descent back to the pine. Reach another little tree on the edge of the cliff; from this one short abseil leads to the last equipped belay. An equipped abseil’s line leads to the bottom.
Bavella Massif is a wild group situated inside Corsica Regional Nature Park (Parque Naturel de la Corse), established in 1971. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to preserve this extraordinary environment.
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.
Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
Best season to climb Orgui d'u San Petru West face goes from late April to October.
COL DE BAVELLA
ZONZA – Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse - Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere
“Bavedda – Aiguilles entre ciel et torrents: Escalade, Rando, Canyon” by Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici - FFME
“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”