Punta Malanda

Page Type
Corsica, France, Europe
Bavella, Bavedda
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall
3825 ft / 1166 m
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Punta Malanda
Created On: Jul 12, 2011
Last Edited On: Mar 3, 2018


Geographical classification: Corsica - Corse > Bavella Massif > Punta di U Chiapponu

Punta Malanda 1166 m

Punta Malanda is another stone's jewel on Bavella Massif, though not as spectacular as Punta Lunarda and Teghie Lisce and a little more secluded inside the Purcaraccia Canyon. With its magnificent reddish SE face, the lonely dome of Punta Malanda is located to the West of Bocca di Larone, overlooking the great and complex canyon named Purcaraccia.
Its roundish shapes quite clash with the slender steepness of the nearby Punta Lunarda.

Punta di l'Arca, Malanda and Petra Tonda
Punta di l'Arca, Malanda and Petra Tonda
The mighty dome of Punta Malanda, Corsica
The mighty dome of Punta Malanda, Corsica

 Also in reason of its long approach, to climb this peak will give you a wild experience; and in reason of its secluded situation its faces had waited until the beginning of the XXI century to be climbed. Just the easy normal route, having only a panoramic interest, had been climbed before.

Getting There

The majestic entrance within Bavella group is the Bavella Pass m. 1211.

Corsica road map


From BASTIA (Corsica Eastern coast) take RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, turn to right following D268 to Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).

From AIACCIO (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio).

From Bavella Pass mt. 1211 descent along North East side of the road D268, reaching a pass named Bocca di Larone mt. 608. Parking. From Bocca di Larone parking get back a bit along D268 to reach on the West side of the pass the first great hairpin.

Punta Malanda routes overview

Punta Malanda routes overview (French scale)

South-East Face

- Sisyphe ou "L’Envolèe Granitique" TD+, 6b+ max., 6a obbl., 270 m.- equipped with bolts

- La Fille d'Avril TD+, 6c max., 6a+ obbl., 290 m. - equipped with bolts

- Gaia TD+, 6b max., 6b obbl., 270 m. - trad route

Sisyphe first pitches, Punta Malanda
Sisyphe low slab
Getting to the top of Punta Malanda
Getting the summit

North Face

- Voie de la Face Nord ABO, 7c max., 6c obbl., 200 m. - equipped with bolts

Sisyphe ou L'Envolee Granitique

Sisyphe ou L'Envolee Granitique report

Punta Malanda SE Face - Sysiphe
Punta Malanda SE Face - Sysiphe

TD sup., F6b+, F6a obbl.
Summit altitude: mt. 1166
Length: 270 mt.
Pitches: 7
Exposure: SE
First ascent: D. Allemand – L. Menetrier 2000
Starting: Bocca di Larone mt. 608 - Road D268 Col de Bavella
Hut: Auberge – Gite d’Etape du Col de Bavella

A technical superb route with extra-solid red granite. Equipped with bolts.

Approach: when driving from Solenzara to Col de la Bavellaalong the road D268,  beyond the Bocca di Larone you will get  a great hairpin. From here it starts on the right a mainly level track, entering  a dense vegetation and skirting on the right the great canyon of Purcaraccia. After half an hour the track goes down to reach the stream. Cross the river gaining the opposite bank; after the ford rise immediately up along the steep vegetated slope along a not very obvious trail, but marked with several cairns. After 15 minutes the trail goes towards left along some slopes, reaching a great vegetated gully. Climb the gully. Starting point is situated in the upper and right part of the gully (1 hour and 30 minutes from Bocca di Larone).

Sisyphe report (French Scale)

P1 - Climb a technical smooth and sloping slab 6b+
P2 - Follow another technical slab a bit easier 6a+
P3 - Another slab 5b
P4 - Head slantaway towards right. Now the climb becomes steeper. A crux move, then a fine climb. 6a
P5 - A difficult and steep wall with some athletic moves. Spaced bolts. 6b
P6 - Another steep wall a bit easier. Spaced bolts. 6a
P7 - An easy pitchs leads onr the superb summit. A majestic view over Bavella stone’s world.

Punta Malanda Sisyphe Technical slab
Technical slab
Punta Malanda - Sisyphe first slabs
Sisyphe first slabs
Punta Malanda Sisyphe last abseil
Punta Malanda Sisyphe last abseil

Descent: abseiling. After the first three abseils on the line of the route, traverse left (facing in) reaching a vegetated ledge. From here an abseil reachs the route’s second belay. Another abseil leads to the bottom.

Red Tape

Asphodel detail, Corsica

Asphodel, detail

Pino Laricio tormented by the wind - Bavella

Pino Laricio

Sunset from Col de Bavella

Bavella landscape

Bavella Massif is a wild group situated inside a Regional Park. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to preserve this extraordinary environment.

Nature and climate

Bavella autocthonous lezard
Bavella autocthonous lezard
World of stone: pothole on the summit of Punta Malanda
World of stone: pothole on the summit of Punta Malanda

Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.

Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.

When to climb and hike

Best seasons are Spring and Fall.

Where to stay


Punta Malanda map



- Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape

- Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape


– Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
- Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere



Guidebooks and maps

Bavedda (Corsica) Climbing, hiking and Canyoning Guidebook
Massif de Bavella Guide d'Escalade en Corse
Bavedda, Rocca é Sole


“Bavedda – Aiguilles entre ciel et torrents: Escalade, Rando, Canyon” by Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici - FFME

“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher

“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau


IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella - Solenzara