Ostrý Štit seen from Zbojnicka Chata
It is a very interesting summit for “average” climbers. It offers plenty of easy routes, from II to V, but you can find here only one route for graduates (“Ostra realita” UIAA VIII-) and with the nearby south wall of Široká Veža makes an eldorado for climbers.
It ascends between Vel’ká Studená / Staroleśna Valley (south) and Zadná Javorová / Zadnia Jaworowa Valley (north) and is separated from Široká Veža by Biela Lávka / Biała Ławka and from Javorový Štit by Javorové Sedlo / Jaworowa Przełęcz. In the west ridge of Ostrý Štit rises its smaller brother - Malý Ostrý Štit separated by Prielom v Ostrom / Przełęcz w Ostrym.
The Slovakian and Polish name means “sharp, pointed summit” and comes from its shape, especially when you look from the east direction.
FROM SLOVAKIAN SIDE:
The major city in this area is Poprad, where you can get by bus or train. From Poprad there is a lot of buses and trains to Starý Smokovec (13km) at the foot of Tatra:
train time table
bus time table
train time table from Poprad to Starý Smokovec Tatranská elektrická železnica
FROM POLISH SIDE:
The best point to stars the journey is Zakopane – the biggest town on Polish side of Tatra Mountains. You can get there from Kraków by bus (most recommended), car or train:
By bus: there are a lot of buses from Kraków to Zakopane - time table of PKS and private lines Frey and Szwagropol.
By train: the road is much longer and dearer than by bus - time table from Kraków 0.00-11.59 a.m., 12.00-11.59 p.m. and from Zakopane.
By car: from Kraków take a road number 7 to Chyżne and follow it to Rabka. Here this road turn right to Chyżne, but you follow still straight a head in south direction by road number 95. In Poronin 5 km before Zakopane turn left (east) to border crossing point in Łysa Polana.
From Zakopane: Take a bus to Polana Palenica (time table of PKS, in high season there are a lot of private buses, too – a station is opposite to PKS) and get off in Łysa Polana / Lysá Pol’ana (Attention! private buses sometimes has a direction-board “Morskie Oko”). Cross the polish-slovakian border . Bus station on Slovakian side is about 100m after border crossing point on the right. Take a bus to Poprad, which goes through Starý Smokovec (time table).
Approach to Zbojnicka Chata:
From Stary Smokovec follow green marked trail to Hrebienok / Siodelko (you can take there cable railway (“lanovka”) – (time table ) – 1 h 15 min. Next follow red marked trail in Skalnata Chata direction and after about 15 min turn left on blue-marked trail, leading to Zbojnicka Chata (2 h 30 min).
Approach: from Zbojnicka Chata take a yellow-marked trail leading on Priečne Sedlo and follow it to Strelecké Polia / Strzeleckie Pola - the highest part of Vel’ká Studená Valley. When you pass on your right hand a top of Strelecká Veža you have the south wall of Ostrý Štit on your left hand in the north direction.
1. Motykova cesta (IV) 3h.
2. Šwierzov komín (II-III) 1,5h.
3. Häberleinova cesta (III-IV) 2h.
4. Cesta Spišských vodcov (III) 2h.
5. Došek - Komárek (IV) 2,5h. TOPO
6. Petráň - Charvátová (IV) ?h. TOPO
7. Jurzycova cesta (II-III) ?h.
8. Ostrá realita (VIII-) 3h. TOPO
general TOPO and general VIEW
Approach: from Zbojnicka Chata take a yellow-marked trail leading on Priečne Sedlo and follow it to Sivé Plesa / Siwe Stawy (Lakes). Now you have the south-west wall of Ostrý Štit on your left hand in the north direction.
1. Stejskal-Gross-Páleníček (V,A2) 10h. TOPO
2. Kučera-Oružinský "Jaskynky" (V) 3h.
3. Zamkovského komín (V) 4h.
4. Variant ľavou hornou časťou steny (V-VI) 4h.
5. Žlté nebezpečenstvo (V) 1h. TOPO
6. Ostrie JZ piliera (V) TOPO
Route of rappel from the top by the south wall (on Strelecké Polia / Strzeleckie Pola - the upper part of Vel’ká Studená Valley).