Torre dell'Antonio 2380 m
Torre dell'Antonio 2380 m is the southernmost and the less identified one among the towers of dolomia of Pordoi, with the appearance of a side spur of the Sella Group near Sass Pordoi. Towards SW it presents an interesting wall with a couple of routes on excellent rock. This wall is located in the vicinity of the road to the Pordoi pass, an alpine pass at 2239 m above sea level located between the Sella Group to the North and the Marmolada Group to the South and connecting the Belluno province to the East with the Trento province to the West. To be exact it is located on the Western side of the road SS48, in the province of Trento. Both the easy and quick approach and the quality of the rock make the Torre dell'Antonio a destination rather frequented, even when the meteo forecast advises against to climb longer or more demanding routes.
The setting is lovely and the views are breathtaking over the Sassolungo group and the surrounding peaks in the Sella group.
The starting point to climb Torre dell'Antonio is the road SS48 running to Passo Pordoi from Canazei, Fassa Valley. Along the SS48, west of Passo Pordoi, just upstream of the 27th bend, there is a small parking lot on which to park.
Via Cipriani description
Difficulty: IV+ (UIAA scale)
Length: 250 m.
A fun advisable climb, mostly on excellent rock, on a side buttress of the Sella Group, near the Sass Pordoi. Stops equipped, protections existing and easy possibility to integrate.
Approach - From the last hairpin bend before the Passo Pordoi coming from Canazei (small car park on the right) take a track on the left and leave it immediately to follow a more uncertain trail aboard, towards the WNW (aiming at the Sassolungo in the distance). After crossing a small stretch with dwarf pine continue vaguely horizontally. Arrived in sight of a lonely tree, descent under it to reach a yellow wall. From the wall rise briefly about twenty meters heading to a cairn. 2 m higher a sling on a hole marks the start of the climb.
Pitch 1 - Climb straight, then slightly left, looking for a short chimney; climb it on the left and oblique right to the stance, 30 m, II and IV.
Pitch 2 - Climb a short step, then oblique easily to the right to take a chimney. Up the chimney or the rocks to its right and then on easier rocks to the stance, 45 m, III, IV-, II
3 - Up the wall on the left of the stance on good holds, then climb on easy terrain to the stance,35 m, IV, III
Pitch 4 - Head to a protruding rock, pass over a jammed boulder that acts as a bridge, then climb up the right-hand crack to the stance, 30 m, II, III, IV, III
Pitch 5 - Up the wall to the right of the stance using a blade, then continue on easier rocks to the stance on the left of a dihedral-chimney, 25 m, IV, III, II
Pitch 6 - Enter the dihedral and climb it with fun climbing, exit right to the stance, 30 m, IVPitch 7 - Climb on easy rocks up to a small saddle (optional stance), then up the short summit wall to the right, 45 m, II
Descent - Head to the east, aiming for a hole in the rock. Cross the hole and traverse on rocky and scree slopes towards steep meadows. Go down looking for an easy passage on steep meadows and rocks (possibility of two short rappel). Finally you will reach less steep meadows and gravel, then you will find the approach track. Follow it backwards to get to the starting point.
- Via Didirina V- (UIAA scale), 315 m - Located to the left of the previous route
- SE ridge III, 200 m
- Via Rina III+, 250 m
No fees no permits required.
The best season is summer (from June to the end of September).
Different kinds of accomodation in Canazei, along the road SS 48 to Passo Pordoi and on Passo Pordoi.
"Gruppo di Sella" - Fabio Favaretto, Andrea Zannini - Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d'Italia
"Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni" - Mauro Bernardi, Athesia 2011