The mountain area located in proximity of Refuge Franz Kostner is a beautiful place to climb some fine routes on various peaks and crags; Col de Stagn is one of these latter, a stunning mountain crag located above the Campolongo Pass and belonging to Sella Group, Vallon Subgroup. The setting is lovely and the views are breathtaking from anywhere one turns.
The setting: Sasso del Rifugio, Sasso delle Nove, Sasso delle Dieci and Piz da Lec
On the steep and compact East Wall, built in a black and yellow dolomia of good quality, some interesting climbing route have been recently realized, in addition to a trad route running on the East ridge.
Col de Stagn seen from path 636
Col de Stagn pano over Sass dla Crusc
The starting points to approach the crag are both Corvara in Badia, located in the homonymous Val Badia, and Campolongo Pass.
Road access to Corvara in Badia
- From Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria road to Brunico. In Brunico turn to right, following the Val Badia road to Pedraces and La Villa. In La Villa take on the right the road to Corvara.
Marmolada seen from Campolongo approach path
Approach to Col de Stagn
There are three possibilities:
- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station; at a junction follow on the left the path n. 636 and when the path begins to descent you’re getting to Col de Stagn wall on your right hand. Leave the main path crossing the meadows and heading to the wall.
- by “Boè” cable car starting from Corvara in Badia - from the upper station carry on as reported at the previous point
- by walking from Campolongo Pass 1875 m – Take a dirty road starting from Campolongo (path n. 636) and getting after 0,20 minutes to Refuge Bec di Roces; near the shelter a parth starts reaching and crossing the characteristic Needles named Bec de Roces. Pass Bec de Roces and reach a crossroads (singpost) just below East Face of Col de Stagn. Leave the main path and head to right up the slopes to gain the base of the wall
Bes de Roces tiny pinnacles and Pelmo
Col de Stagn
The approach path from Campolongo
Col de Stagn Ludomania report
Col de Stagn East Wall – Ludomania report (French scale)
Summit altitude: m 2517
Difficulty: French 6a max
Route length: 200 m
First ascent: T. Kostner, M. Agreiter, A. Crafonara 2013
Starting point: Campolongo Pass or Corvara in Badia
Ludomania forth pitch traverse
Stunning walls seen from the summit
A worthy route up the central pillar of Col de Stagn East wall running with a logical and nice line. Protections are good, a bit spaced on easier pitches
Approach - See the previous point; the starting point of the route is located on the left of an obvious pillar, on a small terrace inside an inlet from which is well visible the first fix
L1 - Climb the slabs to a grassy ramp and follow it towards right. Belay under a little wall - 5a, 30 m. 6 fix
b>L2 - Up two little overhangs (crux pitch), then vertically to a stance on the right - 6a (or 5b and A0), 35 m., 8 fix L3 - Up to the right of the stance, then climb a little ridge towards left and a crack cutting a little pillar, reaching the stance - 4c, 5 fix L4 - From the stance traverse left, then climb up straightly reaching the summit of the pillar. Climb a little wall and reach the stance - 5b, 60 m., 6 fix L5 - Climb a little wall and some steps to reach a terrace where is situated the belay - 5c, 30 m., 5 fix L6 - On easier rocks to the end of the difficulties, belay on a outcrop - II, I, 30 m.
After 100 m. walking up you're getting the summit of Col de Stagn (cairns). Wide and stunning views!
Sasso delle Nove and Rif. Kostner from Col de Stagn
Bec de Roces little needles
Descent: two possibilities depending from your starting point
- coming from Campolongo: from the summit of Col de Stagn cross the summit debris heading to the left to reach the path coming from Refuge Kostner. Follow it towards left, reaching the crossroads at footh of Col de Stagn (wooden signposts), then descend following the same path of the approach
- coming from Corvara: from the summit head to Refuge Kostner, reach it and the upper station of the cable-car
- East Ridge - Eva Dorme VI VI+ pp VII+, 160 m - First climbers: Roly Galvagni, Massimo Maceri Nov 2011 - Jul 2013
No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing
When to Climb
The best season to climb goes from June to September