Col de Stagn 2517 m
The mountain area located in proximity of the Refuge Franz Kostner is a beautiful place to climb some fine routes on various peaks and crags. Col de Stagn is one of these latter, a stunning dôme with a rounded shape located above the Passo Campolongo and belonging to the Sella Group, Vallon Subgroup. More precisely Col de Stagn rises isolated under the shelf on which it's situated the Refuge Franz Kostner. The setting is lovely and the views are breathtaking from anywhere one turns.
On the steep and compact East Wall, built in a black and yellow dolomia of good quality, some interesting climbing route have been recently realized, in addition to a trad route running on the East ridge. The summit can be easily reached in a few minutes by walking from the Rifugio Kostner.
The starting points to approach the crag are both Corvara in Badia, located in the homonymous Val Badia, and Campolongo Pass.
Road access to Corvara in Badia
- From Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria road to Brunico. In Brunico turn to right, following the Val Badia road to Pedraces and La Villa. In La Villa take on the right the road to Corvara.
Approach to Col de Stagn There are three possibilities:
- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station; at a junction follow on the left the path n. 636 and when the path begins to descent you’re getting to Col de Stagn wall on your right hand. Leave the main path crossing the meadows and heading to the wall.
- by “Boè” cable car starting from Corvara in Badia - from the upper station carry on as reported at the previous point
- by walking from Campolongo Pass 1875 m – Take a dirty road starting from Campolongo (path n. 636) and getting after 0,20 minutes to Refuge Bec di Roces; near the shelter a parth starts reaching and crossing the characteristic Needles named Bec de Roces. Pass Bec de Roces and reach a crossroads (singpost) just below East Face of Col de Stagn. Leave the main path and head to right up the slopes to gain the base of the wall
Col de Stagn East Wall – Ludomania report (French scale)
Summit altitude: m 2517
Difficulty: French 6a max
Route length: 200 m
First ascent: T. Kostner, M. Agreiter, A. Crafonara 2013
Starting point: Campolongo Pass or Corvara in Badia
A worthy route up the central pillar of Col de Stagn East wall running with a logical and nice line. Protections are good, a bit spaced on easier pitches
Approach - See the previous point; the starting point of the route is located on the left of an obvious pillar, on a small terrace inside an inlet from which is well visible the first fix
L1 - Climb the slabs to a grassy ramp and follow it towards right. Belay under a little wall - 5a, 30 m. 6 fix
L2 - Up two little overhangs (crux pitch), then vertically to a stance on the right - 6a (or 5b and A0), 35 m., 8 fix
L3 - Up to the right of the stance, then climb a little ridge towards left and a crack cutting a little pillar, reaching the stance - 4c, 5 fix
L4 - From the stance traverse left, then climb up straightly reaching the summit of the pillar. Climb a little wall and reach the stance - 5b, 60 m., 6 fix
L5 - Climb a little wall and some steps to reach a terrace where is situated the belay - 5c, 30 m., 5 fix
L6 - On easier rocks to the end of the difficulties, belay on a outcrop - II, I, 30 m. After 100 m. walking up you're getting the summit of Col de Stagn (cairns). Wide and stunning views!
Descent: two possibilities depending from your starting point
- if coming from Campolongo: from the summit of Col de Stagn cross the summit debris heading to the left to reach the path coming from Refuge Kostner. Follow it towards left, reaching the crossroads at footh of Col de Stagn (wooden signposts), then descend following the same path of the approach
- if coming from Corvara: from the summit gain the Refuge Kostner and the upper station of the Vallon chair lift
- East Ridge
- Eva Dorme VI VI+ pp VII+, 160 m - First climbers: Roly Galvagni, Massimo Maceri Nov 2011 - Jul 2013
No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing
The best season to climb goes from June to September
There are two shelter in the surrounding:
Rifugio Franz Kostner 2550 m
Situation: located on a large debris terrace at the mouth of Vallon, under the walls of Cima Vallon and Pala delle Guide, Sella Group
Open: 1 of July - 30 of September
Size: 33 pers.
Owner: C.A.I. Bolzano
Guardian: Emanuel Agreiter
Hut's phone 0039-3338759838
Guardian's phone: 0039-0471/836757
- by Boè cable car + Vallon chair lift from Corvara in Badia
- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station. After about 5 minutes you reach the Boè lake and then the refuge
- by walking from Passo Campolongo 1875 m – Take a dirty road starting from Campolongo (path n. 636) and getting after 0,20 minutes to Refuge Bec di Roces. Near the shelter it starts a path reaching and crossing the characteristic needles named Bec de Roces. Pass Bec de Roces and reach a crossroads just below East Face of Col de Stagn, then the refuge
- Rifugio Bec de Roces
ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail email@example.com
Guidebooks and maps “Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali” Vol I by M. Bertolotti- L. Galbiati – F. Vascellari Collana Mountain Geographic
Kompass f. 616 1:30000 Provincia di Belluno Arabba-Marmolada
Tabacco ff. 06–07 1:25000