Veratinspitze (Cima Vertana), 3545 m, seen from the Tabarettahütte, on the way to Ortler. July 2004
Vertainspitze (Italian: Cima Vertana) lies in Italian South Tyrol (Südtirol / Alto Adige), in Ortler Group, opposite to the "king" Ortler. It is a dark rock massif, with good visible two peaks. The southern one is 3389 m high, and the main summit is 3545 meters.
The mountain Vertainspitze is from three sides surrounded by valleys. They are the following: Suldental (Valle di Solda) in the west, Zaytal (Valle di Zai) with the glacier Zayferner (Vedretta di Zai) in the northwest and Rosimtal with both glaciers Rosimferner (Vedretta di Rosin) and Laaser Ferner (Vedretta di Lasa) in the southeast.
In the northeast we have the saddle Angelusscharte (3337 m), which separates Vertainspitze from the mountain Hohe Angelus-spitze (L’Angelo Grande), 3521 m. In the southeast a second saddle, called Rosimjoch (3288 m) separates Vertainspitze from the mountain Schild-spitze (Punta di Scudo), 3461 m.
The first ascent of Vertainspitze was achieved in 1865, by Julius von Payer and J. Pingerra.
Today Vertainspitze stays in shadow of the ice giant Ortler, but is a really interesting summit of moderate difficulty. From the peak and on the way is nice view to the “big three” of Ortler Group – Ortler, Monte Zebru and Königsspitze.
Both most used routes begin at Kanzel lift station(2350 m) . From Sulden you can take a chair-lift to Kanzel (7 euro) or walk-up on foot (one and half hours).
The best outgoing point to Vertainspitze is a little town Sulden (Solda), 1907 m. There is no train station, Sulden is best reachable by car (or bus):
1. From southern Germany: Munich – Garmisch – Landeck – Reschenpass, then in Italy road SS 40 via Mals, later SS 38 via Schlunders towards Passo dello Stlevio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
2. From Austria: Innsbruck – Landeck - Reschenpass, in Italy road SS 40 via Mals, later SS 38 via Schlunders towards Passo dello Stlevio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
3. From the Italian South Tyrol – Bolzano – by road SS38 Merano – Schlandres – towards Passo dello Stelvio, before pass, in Gomagoi turn left towards Sulden.
4. From Italian Lombardia: from Milan by SS36 towards Lake Como, later by SS 38 towards Sondrio, through Passo dello Stelvio, in Gomagoi turn right towards Sulden.
No permits or fees for climbing are required. The mountain lies in the area of Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio (National Park Stilfser Joch).
The best season is July to September. Fresh snow and bad weather conditions are possible in high summer also.
1. Rosimtal (normal way): from Kanzel lift station (2350 m) take the marked route nr 13 downstairs to Rosimtal, later along the valley, right of the Rosimwände (walls) and on the rand of glacier (Rosimferner) up to pass Rosimjoch (3288 m) . From here to the left, on the southern ridge, through rocks (light climbing up to UIAA I-II) and snow fields, to the summit. General difficulty is PD-.
2. Nordwestgrat (Northwest ridge): from Kanzel lift station (2350 m) take the marked route nr 12, towards the hut Zaytalhuette (Düsseldorferhütte), 2721 m. From the hut right, to the saddle Angeluscharte (3337 m), later climbing (up to UIAA III-IV) by northwest ridge with remains of glacier to the summit. Caution: the ridge is not artificial secured, there is no via ferrata (as described in some guides)! After the rock fall in 1966 the ridge is more difficult as before.
3.North face of Vertainspitze is a classic but difficult ice climb: 500m ascent of the route, up to 80° steepness. You find route description on www. bergsteigen.at. (added by Mathias Zehring).
The actual weather conditions could be proofed here:
Tabacco: Nr 08, Gruppo Ortles - Cevedale/Ortlergruppe, 1:25.000
The only hut near Vertainspitze (Cima Vertana) is the Düsseldorfer Hütte, called also Zaytalhütte, in Italian - Rifugio Serristori. It lies on 2721 m in Zaytal (Valle di Zai). This hut exists since 1892 and today belongs to Milan section of CAI (Club Alpino Itatliano). Düsseldorfer Hütte is managed by Reinstadlers, a famous family of alpine guides in Ortler area.
The hut is reachable from Kanzel lift station, on the marked route nr 12
Details (in German or Italian only) are to find here: