Aiguille de la Varappe : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Plateau du Trient

Aiguille de la Varappe SW face

Aiguille de la Varappe m. 3519

Aiguille de la Varappe is a pure red protogyn granite peak lying amongst Aiguilles Dorèes in the Swiss side of Mont Blanc. The most interesting faces are S and SW, overlooking Saleina Glacier and getting the sun at 10.00-11.00 until 17.00 in full summer. Very fine routes are traced over this side of the peak, but the classic one and most frequently climbed is “Eole danza con noi”.

Getting There

Petit Clocher du Portalet seen from Cabane d'Orny

From Champex mt. 1466, a small village near Martigny, by chair-lift reach La Breya mt. 2188. From here a good trail leads to a wide grassy terrace. Cross the flat terrace, then rise up along a steep slope. Follow the upper moraine, finally reaching Cabane d’Orny SAC. The hut is situated in a very nice position, overlooking Orny Glacier and Petit Clocher du Portalet and near a small lake (Lac de l’Ancient Cabane).
From the hut take the trail to Cabane du Trient, reaching Orny Glacier and then Orny Col. From here gain the flat Trient Glacier (Plateau du Trient) and cross the glacier walking towards SW; after surrounding a rocky ridge entering the glacier, gain a small saddle named Fenêtre de Saleina. Descent in the opposite side of the saddle heading to Aiguille de la Varappe South-West Face and skirting SW face near the base of the rock. (about 2 hours and a half from Cabane d’Orny).

Huts and Bivouacs

Huts:

- CABANE D'ORNY SAC (Suisse Alpine Club “Les Diablerets”) m. 2831 guardian Raymond Angeloz open from 15.06 to 20.09, 90 beds
CABANE D'ORNY

- CABANE DU TRIENT SAC (Suisse Alpine Club)m. 3170, 140 beds
CABANE DU TRIENT

Bivouac:

- BIV."L’ENVERS DES DOREES" mt. 2980

Cabane d'Orny and Lac de l'Ancient Cabane

Sunset from Cabane d'Orny towards Grand Combin - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Routes overview

Belay on Eole danza per noi

Aiguille de la Varappe Routes (French Scale):

- Et je suis le vent 6b 380 mt.

- Eole danza per noi 6a 370 mt.

- C'est Mozart qu'on assassinè? 350 mt.

- Les Chants du Midi 6a+ 380 mt.

- Les Strapontin du Paradis 6a 380 mt.