-
662 Hits
-
76.66% Score
-
7 Votes
Page Type:
|
Mountain/Rock |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
38.88300°N / 110.455°W |
Activities:
|
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling, Canyoneering |
Season:
|
Spring, Fall, Winter |
Elevation:
|
5900 ft / 1798 m |
|
Overview
As you drive east across the San Rafael Swell towards Green River, there is a signed scenic overlook of Spotted Wolf Canyon just before I-70 makes a steep descent to the desert plains below.
That overlook provides an excellent view of the backside and other parts of the San Rafael Reef, but the climbing is on the other side among what are called the B Crags.
|
|
The B Crags are in and around Little Spotted Wolf Canyon. Included are the Eastern Reef's longest non-traversing climb, the Great North Ridge, and Super Crack of the Reef, a 2-pitch 5.10 that apparently has still not seen a free ascent. There are several other single- and multi-pitch routes from 5.5 to 5.12.
Especially in the lower grades, expect adventure climbing on sandy, weak rock with big runouts. Much of the protection you will find won't feel too meaningful. If you're a new multi-pitch trad leader, don't start thinking the 5.6 Great North Ridge sounds just about perfect; you'll probably be terrified.
That said, if you enjoy adventure climbing in spectacular and remote settings and you have a head for runout and slab, you'll love this place.
Getting There
There are 2 main ways to access the crags.
The first is from I-70. Two miles west of the exit for UT 24, turn off onto a dirt road to the right. This road leads into Black Dragon Wash, where the well-known Black Dragon pictograph panel is. Open the wire gate, reclose it after driving through, and head for an underpass. Once through it, you'll be on a dirt road that parallels the reef for about 6 miles before bending east.
Before entering the underpass, check to see if it's flooded. If it is, there is another turnoff and gate on eastbound I-70. You can get to it by crossing the highway on a service road, which technically is illegal, or by driving for quite a ways to the first exit (I believe it is 131) that allows reentry to 70 in the other direction. Of course, if you're coming from the west, this turnoff is the one you want in the first place.
The second approach is from UT 24 via a turnoff about 7 miles south of I-70 and just past MP 153. This road is said to be usually in better condition than the one from I-70, and it connects to the road that parallels the Reef.
Note: the road paralleling the Reef receives regular maintenance but does change according to conditions. I've been on it when I could have driven a regular passenger car with little trouble, and I've been on it when there have been washouts making me thankful I was in a Jeep.
2.1 miles south of I-70 on the dirt road paralleling the Reef, there is an obvious parking area on the right. Park here.
Routes
From the parking area, you can see Little Spotted Wolf Canyon. Drop into the wash close by and follow it for several minutes. I'm not sure if one of its spurs eventually reaches the mouth of the canyon; we struck out and went up and over a ridge and then followed a wash into the mouth. On the way back, we took a more direct way via the ridges.
It takes 15-20 minutes to reach the mouth of the canyon.
For a comprehensive list and description of the routes here, see the Mountain Project page. I will attach route pages to this one as I climb those routes.
Red Tape
Just obey posted regulations.
When to Climb
Anytime, though summers are brutally hot out here and there is little shade.
Camping
Dispersed
1 Routes