OverviewBergseeschijen m. 2815
A perfect granite, a superb environment, a good approach trail, several logical and fine climbing routes - about 20 - an agreeable hut, lying close to the peak: these are the reasons of the popularity of Bergseeschijen, one of the most climbed mountains of the Uri Alps. Bergseeschijen is situated in the upper part of the Göschener Tal, a magnificent valley well known to the mountaineers because of another great peak, the Salbitschijen, famous for its fantastic rock climbings.
Bergseeschijen amazing and steep walls give to the climbers the possibility of one-day trip, if they come from Lombardia (Italy) or Luzern and even from Zurich, being the routes at about 2 hours by walking from the parking.
If you want to take it easy, you can spend the night at Bergsee Hut (2370 m).
Its SSE wall and S ridge are about 320 m drop.
PS - Climbing Bergseeschijen on saturday and spending the night at the hut, could give you the time to climb Schijenstock or Hochschijen on sunday.
Getting ThereRoad Approach
The starting point to the valley is Göschenen, that can be easily and fast reached from Luzern, Zurich or Milan along the Gotthard highway.
From Göschenen (5 km. from the town of Andermatt), along the road up along Göschenen Valley, reaching Göscheneralpsee, with its fine artificial lake (9 km. from Göschenen) and the great dam. Wide car parking area near an Hotel-Restaurant (1790 m)
A very good path starts from Göscheneralpsee, getting in about two hours to Bergsee Hut SAC (Swiss Alpine Club), mt. 2370, always open, guarded in summer, situated below Bergseeschijen.
From the hut head towards right to take a steep slope getting a little col, between South Face and a detached tower (Vorbau), situated below Bergseeschijen classic South Ridge (10 min.). From here take a ledge towards right, running below a fine and compact granite slab to get S face different route’s starting points.
Routes overviewRoutes overview (French scale)
The mountain can be divided into some various sectors, if you are looking to it from the approach trail, or from the Bergsee Hut: the logical and classic line of the South Ridge separates the overhanging and shady West face, on the left, from the sunny and wide South face, on the right. Another logical line, the SE pillar separates the South face from the East one. This face is divided into two sectors: the Great East Face and the Little East Face.
The easiest way to get the summit is the East ridge, normally used for coming down, when there is no more snow around; this route (the most difficult part is equipped with an iron stairway and iron chains) is also a good and interesting way to get the summit for scramblers.
The most frequented and classic route is the South ridge, a fine and not too hard climb, D - mainly from 3a to 4b, two moves grading 4c in the middle and near the summit, 300 m drop.
On the left of S ridge we find:
- Aladin 5c, a short four pitches route
On the compact and magnificent South face there are now several satisfactory routes. From the S ridge starting point follow a ledge towards right, running below the fine and compact granite slab to get S face different route’s starting points.
Starting from the S Ridge towards right:
- Via Andrea 5a, 300 m., last four pitches on S Ridge
- Via Claudia 5c+, 300 m., last four pitches on S Ridge
- Tonis Lust 5c, 300 m., last two pitches on S Ridge
- Via Esther 6a, 300 m., last two pitches on S Ridge
- SE Pillar 5c, 300 m.
Grosse Ostwand (Great East Face)
- E Pfeiler (East Pillar) 6a+, 250 m.
- Gunggel 6a+, 250 m. Fine route; the starting point is about in the middle between E Pfeiler and the little col on the descent route.
- Congratulation 5c+, 200 m.
- Sunnaglanz 5c, 180 m.
- Fuba 5c, 150 m.
Kleine Ostwand (Little East Face)
- Morgenstund 5a
- Aquarius 5c
- Munggawag 5c+
- Habakuk 5c+
- Bellissima 6a
- Friwag 6a
- Oktoberluft 5c+
- Blonds Gift 5c+
Descent: from the summit cross heds to right following the easy East slopes getting to a little col. The downclimb is aided by iron chains and an iron stairway. From here a track amongst blocks is coming down to the aprroach path.
There are very hard routes on the overhanging and shady West wall, but I have no info about them (hope some here can make additions).
HutBergsee Hut m. 2370, SAC Angestein, 4000 Basel, Phone 0041 41 885 14 35
Always open guarded from june to the end of October
Guardians: Fullin Toni e Maria
tel: 0041 41 870 68 32
Mountain Range Dammastok - Salbitschijen
When To ClimbThe South wall gets early clean from snow in spring, but descending can force you to swim in the north channel (normal way down).
The best season comes from the middle of June to October, before the first autumn snow-falls.
Other "one day shots" in this areaAs i think a little difficult to group some summits that do not belong to a single Alp chain or group, I like to put here some links to some amusing mountains you can climb in one day (as I did without stress coming from near Milano) :
Gross Schijen - starting point Oberalp Pass
Piz Prevat - starting point Rodi (south of Gotthard)
Gross Furkahorn - starting point Furkapass
Poncione di Cascina Baggio - starting point Airolo
Chli Bielenhorn - starting point Furkapass
AccomodationsIf you leave far from here and want to make a fine rock campaign in this area there are some Club Alpin Suisse Huts that can host you.
- Bergsee Hutte - 2374 m - tel 4465435 - 40 beds - open in summer
from Göschenen Alp dike in less more than 1 hour
- Salbit Hutte -
- Albert Heim Hutte - 2541 m - 100 beds - tel 4467745 - open in summer and spring weekends
from Tiefenbach (on the road from Andermatt to Furkapass) till a car parking (white route) then in less than 1 hour
- Furka Zentrum - at Furka pass - a lot of space - very cheap !
- Capanna Piansecco - 1980 m - open in weekends
from All'Acqua (on the road from Airolo to Nufenen Pass) in less than 1 hour
no Huts, only an Hotel near the pass or in Andermatt or Disentis
fine sequence of Klettergarten and Berseeschijen
- the Hut
Just a Hint