Situated on the western part of Val di Zocca, on the left side of the homonymous pass, this beatyfull and impressive mountain is a whole of peaks on rough ridges.
It has the courage of the Dolomites ,plus the beauty of granite rock typical of Val di Mello.
It's basicly composed by three main ridges: the N/E from pass di Zocca, the W from Colle Masino, and the S/E directly from the head of the valley.
While the south and east faces are totally in Italian area, the north face is on the swiss side, and it give big opportuntyes for ice climbs.
Since the moltitude of rockclimb routes, in this page are explain just the 3 more important.
Getting thereTo get there you must drive along the SS38 starting from Milano or from Sondrio.
Just few km before Sondrio (coming from Milan), on the right side(N)of Adda river, the small town of "Ardenno" is the begin of the road 404 that leads to S.Martino Val Masino.
Once in S.Martino follow the road on the right (East - Val di Mello) and try to find a car park site (best one is near the "Baita del Gigiat"(1000m).
Once here you must start walking following the yellow signal for "Allievi" refuge (2510m - about 4 hours walk - 1500m difference in elevation). This is a recommended place for rests.
As you can check on the related page, this refuge is placed on the Sentiero Roma, and many people use to come here for a stage, from East(bivouac Manzi -2/3 hours), or from West (Bivouac Molteni/Valsecchi - 3/4 hours).
Coming here from swiss Valle Albigna is a long and not so easy walk that requires the crossing of the Passo di Zocca (2749m) along the glacier de la Albigna (Val Albigna).
Routes and HistoryHistory:
First Ascent: G.Melzi/A.Noseda 02/08/1890
First North Face Ascent: Rydzewsky/Klucker 15/06/1891
First East Face Ascent: V.Mezzanotte/A.Fiorelli 27/08/1908
WSW Ridge- Normal Route (5 hours II°/III°)
NW Ridge- (5 hours II°+)
NW Glacier- (5 hours PD+)
NE Ridge- (10 hours IV+)
NE Wall- (3 hours III°)
E Ridge- (5/6 hours IV°-)
NE Edge- Bignami,Bonatti 21/06/1953 (6/8 hours V°/VI°)
ESE Wall- Marini,Nardella 22/08/1968 (V° A2/A3)
SE Edge- "Spigolo Parravicini" Cazzaniga,Tizzoni 05/09/1937 (V°/V°+)
SSW Wall- Bignami,Catelli,Meroni 01/09/1957 (V°-)
ESE Ridge- "Cresta Rosa Rossa" Rogers,Meldrum,Roper 10/08/1968 (V°/V°+)
From cable car station of Pranzaira(30 min. E).90 places,open summer.
From S.Martino Val Masino(3/4 hours E).100 places,open summer.