The Monte del Forno is located in the southeast of Switzerland at the boundary of Oberengadin and the Val Masino Alps. This part of the Val Masino Alps is not very known to hikers and climbers. Unfairly, because the Forno valley is certainly worth visiting, for both hikers and climbers.

Directly behind the Forno Hütte you can find the Monte del Forno. It is probably the most popular mountain of the area. This is probably because of the beautiful view from the summit towards the Monte Disgrazia, Pizzo Badile and the Bernina Group. Moreover there's the proximity of the Forno huette.

The Monte del Forno doesn't consists of the perfect "Bergell" granite. It is less steep then, as for instance the Monte Rosso. The normal route isn't very interesting and can be done in half a day (UIAA II). A good alternative is to make a traverse from the Pizzo dei Rossi to the Monte del Forno. This climb offers a long traverse without great difficulties (UIAA II).

Monte del Forno

Getting There

In general:
From St.Moritz:
Go in direction of Silvaplana on highway number 27. Then follow highway number 3 to the Maloja Pas.

From Chiavenna:
Take highway number 37 to the Swiss border. Then follow highway number 3 to the Maloja Pas.

To the Forno Hut:
The Forno Hut can be reached in a 4 hour foot march of Maloja Pas. On the way up you pass the beautiful Cavloca lake, the plan Canin and the Forno glacier.

On the way to the Forno Hütte.

The Cavloca lake.

Routes

Normal route from the Forno Hütte

This route offers you a climb/walk over lots of loose rocks with a small climbing passage (II). Halfway there is a cable which helps you to overcome a more difficult passage.

The climb takes about 2-3hours. Difficulty grade: F+/L+

Traverse: Forno Hütte -> Pizzo dei Rossi -> Monte del Forno -> Forno Hütte

This traverse is a good alternative to the normal route. The difficulties are not much higher on this traverse, compared to the normal route. Only the traverse is much longer. The route from the Forno Hütte to the Pizzo dei Rossi is quite tricky, you'll have to find the best route through the couloir that leads to the summitridge near the Pizzo dei Rossi. The North-ridge of the Monte del Forno is quite exposed sometimes and has a lot of climbing passages (UIAA II). The best route to descent is the normal route of the Monte del Forno.

The whole climb takes about 6 hours. Difficulty grade: PD/WS+

The North-ridge of the Monte del Forno.

Maps and Guidebook

Maps:

1:25'000 Map: 1276 – Val Bregaglia / 1296 – Sciora

1:50'000 Maps: 268 – Julierpass / 278 – Monte Disgrazia

Guidebook

Bünder Alpen 4, in German, published by the Swiss Alpine Club. Last edited 1992.

External Links

Forno Hütte
Telephone: 081 / 824 31 82
Internet: Forno Hütte

Weather
Internet: Meteoschweiz.ch

Images