OverviewA serious summit between the Cima di Castello and Pizzi Torrone, in the eastern part of the Masino Group,
till the '60 it was one of the most known mountains of Masino, together with Pizzo Badile and Pizzo Cengalo,
then it has been almost forgotten ... but it's always an old fashion climb !
It is a big mountain with a very thin summit, a blade of 10-30 m drop, that is the main difficulty of the normal route (difficulty of 4+ UIAA) and that make this summit one of the most difficult to be climbed in this area.
Absolutely not to be underestimate: in 1937 some italian climbers guided by Vitale Bramani while trying to descend, during a long and bad storm, died for exhaustion : they were climbing with rock-shoes and couldn't get out the glacier because of ice on walls and fresh snow
(after that Bramani invented the Vibram, the famous sole for heavy boots we still use for high mountain climbs)
But, with fine weather it is a fantastic summit in a wonderful environment.
Just remember always to go there with a long rope (50 m suggested) and an ice-axe !
the Bramani route is one of the finest classic climbs of Masino range, can be considered like the Pizzo Badile N edge, a wonderful and impressive horizontal cross will be printed in your mind :)
From Val di Zocca (a Val Masino subvalley) the summit grows up from two base-boards becoming a unique ridge
From Forno valley (rifugio del Forno) a not specially fine wall allows to get the summit ridge
or Passo Lurani or Colle Rasica with few difficulties (if clean from snow)
Getting ThereNorthern side : val BREGAGLIA
by car from Milan (SS-36) - Milano - Lecco - Chiavenna .... Malojapass
by car from S.Moritz till Malojapass then to rif. dl Forno (val del Forno) 2574m
Southern side - VALTELLINA
by car from Milan (SS-36) Milano - Lecco - Colico .... Sondrio
- Ardenno - bagni del Masino then to rif Allievi (val di Zocca) 2385m
Routes overviewjust remember that all routes have a common end : the final blade that has difficulty of 4+ UIAA,
so I will not give difficulties of the routes that are easier.
some other modern pure rock climbing routes have been open on the base-boards and many variants have been open on the walls