OverviewNice square pyramid that rise up from the boudary between Val Codera and Val Porcellizzo,wherefrom get the name.It's situated in the northern part of this ridge,that start from Punta S.Anna and finish to Pizzo Ligoncio,where is the most important and goodlooking summit with Pizzi dell'Oro and Punta Torelli.
It belongs to the Val Masino Alps,but is apart from the main chain.It offers two rocky wall above both valley sides.
Quite impressive the west(Val Codera),and more easy the east,where the normal route goes along.Very nice is the view from the top,that permits a wide panorama to the more important Badile and Cengalo,and the rest of Alps chain from Monterosa to Bernina group.
Getting hereFrom Swiss:
The approach from Swiss is quite long: the mountain is situated all in Italian territory.
The best way to get it is overriding the Passo della Trubinasca (2701m - two hours from Cab Sasc Furà): this route allows to "discover" the west side.
Another way is the crossing of the Passo Porcellizzo (2862m), that connects the Val Codera to the Val Porcellizzo and also to reach the refuge Gianetti and the East side.
Cab Sasc Fura'is placed in Val Bondasca. (600m EE - Two hours from Laret).
WEST SIDE (Val Codera)
Pizzo Porcellizzo is placed at the head of Val Codera.
A bivouac called Pedroni del Pra',permits to take a break during this very long approach. From Novate Mezzola in 6/7 hours.
To Novate Mezzola by car on road SS36.
Otherwise by busses or trains from Milan and Sondrio.
EAST SIDE (Val Porcellizzo-Val Masino)
The best way and confortable.
The refuge Gianetti, is the local hut: good path from "Bagni del Masino" in 3/4 hours.
"Bagni del Masino" is the last house group of the valley. Reachable by cars or busses from Ardenno in Valtellina,road SP404.
Trains and busses from Milan and Sondrio.
Routes historyWest Wall: P.Ferrario,O.Schiavio 27/07/1912
NW Ridge: O.Bignami,L.Binaghi,A.Demolli,G.Guggeri,G.Pozzi 05/08/1923
N Wall: L.Binaghi,G.Guggeri,F.Maccagno,A.Malinverno 08/08/1932
NNE Ridge: E.Fasana 05/09/1914
E Wall: W.Tayler,Rorhback,L.Inganni,A.Picenoni 10/08/1880
E Wall: (via diretta)A.Malinverno,M.Molteni 15/08/1935
RoutesS Flank: Normal route,easy but boring.From ref.Gianetti (2h EE/F)
West Wall: From Val Codera (4.30h III°)
NW Ridge: Not very good rocks.From Val Codera (4.30h III°)
N Wall: Not very good rocks.From biv.Del Pra' (5h III°)
NNE Ridge: Short bt nice climb.From Passo Porcellizzo (1.30h III°/IV°)
E Wall: Nice and easy climb.From ref.Gianetti (2.45h II°/III°)
E Wall: (direct variant)(IV°/V°)
Sky route,S flank: Long route,from Bagni del Masino ( 4/5h BSA)
Others modern climb routes:
Via "Castelli Romani" L.Maspes,R.Sala,B.Moretti (200m 6a+/6b)
Via "La Iena" L.Maspes,M.Panizza,M.Qunitavalla (200m 6a/6a+)
Via "Juvergogna" (250m VI°/VI°+)
AccomodationsRefuge Sasc Furà 1904m - CAS sez. Bregaglia.50 places,open from 01 July to 15 September.Tel 0041/818221252.
From Bondo-Laret 2 hours(EE).
Refuge Gianetti 2534m - CAI sez. Milano.92 places / 12 in the winter room
open from 01 July to 15 September.
Tel.0039/0342.645161. Warden tel.0039/0342.641068.
From "Bagni del Masino" 3/4 hours(E).
Bivouac Pedroni del Prà 2600m - CAI Novate Mezzola.9 places,always open.
From Novate Mezzola 6/7 hours(E).
Books,Maps and LinksBooks:
-A.Bonacossa/G.Rossi.Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia."Guide dei Monti d'Italia" vol.II TCI 1975
-Miotti/Gogna."Dal Pizzo Badile al Bernina".Zanichelli - 1986
-"Masino-Bregaglia-Disgrazia" G.Maspes and G.Miotti "Guida delle Guide"
-Kompass - Chiavenna-Val Bregaglia 92/93 1/50000
-Swiss topographic maps: Val Bregaglia # 1276 and Sciora # 1296 1/50000