Monte Rosso

Overview

The Monte Rosso is located in the southeast of Switzerland at the boundary of Oberengadin and Val Masino Alps.

Directly behind the Forno Hut you can find the impressive west face of the Monte Rosso. The mountain is not as high as, in the north Monte del Forno, and in the south Cima di Rosso, but therefore not less worth climbing.

Monte Rosso has a few interesting rock climbing routes. Especially the northeast ridge is a classic climb. On the NE-ridge you'll find a striking rock point, the Kluckerzahn. The NE-ridge consists of perfect Val Masino (or Bergell) granite, and is therefore worth climbing. Im comparison with a lot of rebolted classic rock climbing routes the NE-ridge is still pretty adventures. So don't expect any bolts (only a few old ones). The normal route to the summit of the Monte Rosso is, due to the dubious rock quality, not very interesting and should only be used to get down of the mountain.

Getting There

In general:
From St.Moritz:
Go in direction of Silvaplana on highway number 27. Then follow highway number 3 to the Maloja Pas.

From Chiavenna:
Take highway number 37 to the Swiss border. Then follow highway number 3 to the Maloja Pas.


To the Forno Hut:
The Forno Hut can be reached in a 4 hour foot march of Maloja Pas. On the way up you pass the beautiful Cavloca lake, the plan Canin and the Forno glacier.

Routes

1.SW-ridge (Normal route): Do not climb the west face. The snow is almost completely gone in the west face. Therefore the SW-ridge is a good, and safe alternative.(2-3h from the Forno Hut. PD/II)

2.NE-ridge: A sharp and exposed ridge. The rock quality is very good and the routes isn't rebolted (2006). Therefore the grade should be taken serious. If you can tackle the difficulties it really worth climbing (5h from the Forno Hut. AD+/IV)

3.Kluckerzahn: Very beautiful rock point at the begin of the NE-ridge. Worth climbing in combination with the NE-ridge, short but quite airy. (2h from the Forno Hut. PD+/III+)

Maps and Guidebooks

Maps:

* 1:25'000 Map: 1276 – Val Bregaglia / 1296 – Sciora
* 1:50'000 Map: 268 – Julierpass / 278 – Monte Disgrazia

Guidebooks:

* Ruedi Meier and Peter Alig, SAC-führer Bündner Alpen 4: Südliches Bergell - Disgrazia (SAC Verlag 2006).

External Links

Forno Huette, 2574m
SAC Rorschach
Fritz Loretan
Telephone : 081 / 824 31 82
Webpage: Fornohuette.ch

Other usefull links:
Digital map - www.mapplus.ch
Weather forecast - www.meteoschweiz.ch
Time schedule train/bus - www.sbb.ch

Images

View Monte Rosso Image Gallery - 5 Images